﻿1
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[Wind Howling]

2
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[Fabric Flapping]

3
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- [Wind Continues Howling] - [Snow Patters]

4
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[Light Snoring]

5
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[Breathes Deeply]

6
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[Metal Picks Hit Ice]

7
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[Creaking]

8
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[Pulleys Ratcheting]

9
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片名：攀登梅鲁峰

10
00:02:41,496 --> 00:02:44,496
（三年前）

11
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（蒙大拿，波兹曼）

12
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嗯 谢谢，亲爱的
- [Man] Mmm. - Thank you, dear.

13
00:02:52,757 --> 00:02:54,842
因为他们都是非常特别的 里面全都是...
[Woman] 'Cause they're extra-special, filled with-

14
00:02:54,926 --> 00:02:55,885
球芽甘蓝
[Man #2] Brussels sprouts.

15
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我们吃海鲜牛排套餐，你们吃...
We get the surf and turf. You guys get-

16
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我们吃一大盆球芽甘蓝 - 不错
- We get the full-on Brussels sprout... - [Man #2] Nice.

17
00:03:01,015 --> 00:03:02,600
就是要浪费
Extravaganza.

18
00:03:03,643 --> 00:03:05,186
我一直都能...
I can always...

19
00:03:05,269 --> 00:03:08,022
放回去一点点，如果不是...
put it back out there a little bit if it's not-

20
00:03:19,492 --> 00:03:23,037
康拉德和我刚结婚时 我们许下了这些誓言
[Woman] When Conrad and I first got married, he made all these promises.

21
00:03:23,121 --> 00:03:26,416
我再也不会去攀登大山了
Oh, I'm never gonna go to the big mountains again.

22
00:03:27,625 --> 00:03:30,044
我知道他永远不会放弃登山
I knew he would never quit climbing...

23
00:03:30,128 --> 00:03:35,383
但不久之后他就开始梦想 进行其他一些重大远征
but it wasn't long before he was dreaming of some other big expedition.

24
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每次我都眼睛一转说，好
And I was just rolling my eyes, going, "Right, okay."

25
00:03:41,681 --> 00:03:44,308
高海拔喜马拉雅山攀登非常危险
[Conrad] High-altitude Himalayan climbing is very risky.

26
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那是最危险的专业运动
It is the most dangerous professional sport.

27
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但我觉得对于梅鲁峰来说 冒这些风险都是值得的
But I think with Meru, that risk is worth it.

28
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作为登山家，梅鲁峰是我到过的 最高的高峰
As an Alpinist, Meru is the culmination of all I've done...

29
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（康拉德·安克）

30
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我一心只想登上峰顶，完成这次攀登
and all I've wanted to do is this peak and this climb.

31
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我一直都知道他一定会继续攀登
[Woman] I knew he was gonna continue to climb forever...

32
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但不知道他打算用什么方式继续爬
but, you know, in what aspect, I wasn't sure.

33
00:04:05,997 --> 00:04:08,583
我知道他肯定会去
I know that stuff can happen.

34
00:04:06,966 --> 00:04:10,966
（珍妮·安克）

35
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每次我都这么说
You know, and that's what I always say.

36
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对，对
Yeah, yeah.

37
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但也会遇到问题
But stuff can happen.

38
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[Horns Honking]

39
00:04:15,188 --> 00:04:19,188
（2008年9月）

40
00:04:23,267 --> 00:04:26,267
（印度新德里，海拔：700英尺）

41
00:04:31,022 --> 00:04:34,442
[Engine Whirring]

42
00:04:34,525 --> 00:04:37,528
[Chattering In Foreign Language]

43
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[Honking]

44
00:04:49,207 --> 00:04:52,960
我到现在已经严重晕车快一小时了
I've been super carsick for about an hour now.

45
00:04:50,077 --> 00:04:53,077
（雷南·奥兹图尔克）

46
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你还好吗，吉米
- How you doin', Jimmy? - [Groaning]

47
00:05:05,389 --> 00:05:09,727
我们刚用小车的车顶空邮了 一堆我们的东西
We just airmailed a bunch of our stuff off the top of our... truck...

48
00:05:06,514 --> 00:05:10,014
（吉米·陈）

49
00:05:09,811 --> 00:05:12,063
我们现在正在整理弄乱的地方
so we're pickin' up the pieces right now.

50
00:05:18,361 --> 00:05:21,823
梅鲁峰因为几乎无法攀登而名声远扬
Meru definitely had a reputation as this impossible climb.

51
00:05:24,325 --> 00:05:28,246
我也知道，康拉德组织这次旅行的方式
And I also knew, just by the way that Conrad brought the trip up...

52
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非常的冷淡，所以...
it was very nonchalant, so- [Chuckles]

53
00:05:32,166 --> 00:05:35,086
我觉得康拉德对于组织旅行
I think the more nonchalant Conrad is...

54
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越冷淡，你就会越担心
about suggesting a trip, the more worried you oughta be. [Laughs]

55
00:05:56,816 --> 00:05:58,317
噢耶
Oh, yeah.

56
00:05:58,401 --> 00:06:02,363
[Scattered Chatter]

57
00:06:02,446 --> 00:06:03,447
[Groans]

58
00:06:03,531 --> 00:06:08,452
（当地语）
[Speaking Foreign Language]

59
00:06:08,536 --> 00:06:12,206
- [Speaking Foreign Language] - [Man Laughing]

60
00:06:15,209 --> 00:06:20,006
吉米和康拉德联系我说想攀登 梅鲁峰时我非常震惊
[Man] I was blown away when Jimmy and Conrad approached me about Meru.

61
00:06:20,089 --> 00:06:22,174
他们没很详细的说明
They didn't build it up very much.

62
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也没有说许多人尝试攀登 这座山峰并最终失败了
They didn't say, "This is the mountain that everyone's tried and failed on."

63
00:06:27,305 --> 00:06:31,392
在他们的心里，我可能是... 年轻，新鲜的血液
In their minds, I was probably- "Oh, here's some young, fresh blood."

64
00:06:28,703 --> 00:06:32,703
（雷南·奥兹图尔克）

65
00:06:31,475 --> 00:06:34,020
肯定很擅长
He's gonna be good at-

66
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把绳子挂在他们需要的地方
to get the rope up on certain pitches.

67
00:06:37,231 --> 00:06:40,568
[Bell Rings]

68
00:06:43,863 --> 00:06:46,616
[Jingles]

69
00:06:46,699 --> 00:06:50,286
[Ringing Continues]

70
00:07:12,934 --> 00:07:14,435
你好
[Jimmy] Namaste.

71
00:07:16,938 --> 00:07:18,439
[Jimmy Murmurs]

72
00:07:18,522 --> 00:07:23,486
<i>♪♪ [Man Vocalizing]</i>

73
00:07:35,706 --> 00:07:37,416
喔吼 - 喔吼
- Woo-hoo! - [Jimmy] Woo-hoo!

74
00:07:37,500 --> 00:07:40,544
看看这的景色，天啊
- Look at this reveal here. Yes! Om, om. - [Chuckles]

75
00:07:42,588 --> 00:07:44,048
喔
Whoo.

76
00:07:47,218 --> 00:07:49,387
梅鲁峰中间的鲨鱼鳍
[Man] The Shark's Fin on Meru central.

77
00:07:51,222 --> 00:07:55,393
这次攀登需要比攀登喜马拉雅的 其他路线付出更多尝试经历更多失败
This climb has seen more attempts and more failures than any route in the Himalaya.

78
00:07:56,602 --> 00:07:58,938
喔
[Chuckles] Wow.

79
00:08:00,731 --> 00:08:02,608
这是恒河的源头
[Man Continues] It's the headwaters of the Ganges River...

80
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世界上最神圣的河流之一
one of the most sacred rivers on Earth.

81
00:08:05,444 --> 00:08:08,572
它是宇宙的中心，一个奇异的枢纽
The center of the universe. It's this weird nexus...

82
00:08:05,981 --> 00:08:10,981
（《无影无踪》作者：乔恩·克拉考尔）

83
00:08:08,656 --> 00:08:14,120
是天堂，地狱和人间交汇的地方
that sort of is the point where heaven and Earth and hell all come together.

84
00:08:16,956 --> 00:08:20,292
这个地方被称作鲨鱼鳍是因为 这是一片长1500英尺的刀刃状
The thing that gives it the name the Shark's Fin is this 1,500-foot blade...

85
00:08:20,376 --> 00:08:22,878
精美无暇的花岗岩
of this beautiful, flawless granite...

86
00:08:22,962 --> 00:08:25,131
高耸进入20000英尺的空中
way up high, you know, 20,000 feet.

87
00:08:26,465 --> 00:08:30,553
这是对大师级攀登者的试炼
This is the test of the master climber.

88
00:08:30,636 --> 00:08:34,849
已经有众多伟大的登山家 对它发起了20多次尝试
You know, it's been tried by so many great climbers- I don't know, 20 times.

89
00:08:34,932 --> 00:08:38,936
一些全世界最优秀的登山家 也都尝试过并在这条线路上遭遇了失败
Some of the best climbers in the world have tried and failed on this route.

90
00:08:39,729 --> 00:08:41,564
[Slide Projector Clicking]

91
00:08:41,647 --> 00:08:43,524
梅鲁不只是难
[Krakauer Continues] Meru is not just hard.

92
00:08:43,607 --> 00:08:46,694
它的难是因为路线太过复杂
It's hard in this really complicated way.

93
00:08:46,777 --> 00:08:48,362
你不能光擅长冰面攀登
You can't just be a good ice climber.

94
00:08:48,446 --> 00:08:51,991
不能光擅长高海拔行动 也不能只是一个优秀的攀岩者
You can't just be good at altitude. You can't just be a good rock climber.

95
00:08:52,074 --> 00:08:54,660
你得能冰面攀登，混合攀登
You gotta be able to ice climb, mix climb.

96
00:08:54,744 --> 00:08:59,874
而且要能在2万英尺的海拔上 攀登垂直的岩壁
And you gotta be able to do big-wall climbing at 20,000 feet.

97
00:08:59,957 --> 00:09:02,460
这就像个各种困难组成的大礼包
It's all that stuff wrapped in one package...

98
00:09:02,543 --> 00:09:05,046
已经击败了数不清的攀登者
that's defeated so many good climbers...

99
00:09:05,129 --> 00:09:09,216
它可能还会击败你，并不断 击败之后的挑战者
and will probably defeat you and maybe will defeat everybody for all time.

100
00:09:09,300 --> 00:09:11,719
它给人的这种精神挑战
That, to a certain kind of mind-set...

101
00:09:11,802 --> 00:09:13,971
是你无法抗拒的诱惑
is an irresistible appeal.

102
00:09:15,280 --> 00:09:19,780
（大本营，海拔：14500英尺）

103
00:09:30,905 --> 00:09:33,657
当我们到达那里，我抬头看着群山
[Renan] When we actually got there, and I looked up at the mountain...

104
00:09:33,741 --> 00:09:36,994
我不知道...
I didn't know... what-

105
00:09:37,078 --> 00:09:40,956
之后将会遇到什么，因为我以前 从没见过这么复杂的情况
what we were getting into, 'cause I'd never seen something that complex before.

106
00:09:43,542 --> 00:09:47,505
雷南经验不足让我有了 充足的理由暂停攀登
[Conrad] Renan's inexperience really didn't give me any reason to pause.

107
00:09:47,588 --> 00:09:50,132
我知道他很强壮，他了解整个系统
I knew he was strong enough. He knew the systems.

108
00:09:50,216 --> 00:09:54,428
作为团队，你们能汇聚 所有团员的经验
And as a team, you're the sum total of all your experience.

109
00:09:59,058 --> 00:10:02,144
我跟康拉德参加过不少次远征
[Renan] I'd been on a number of expeditions with Conrad.

110
00:10:02,228 --> 00:10:04,939
但从没跟他一起真正进行过攀登
But I hadn't done any serious climbs with him.

111
00:10:05,981 --> 00:10:08,442
也从没跟吉米一起攀登过
And I had never done a climb with Jimmy.

112
00:10:09,652 --> 00:10:11,570
[Carabiners Clinking]

113
00:10:12,947 --> 00:10:16,617
我非常坚定的要求
I'm so adamant about only going on expeditions...

114
00:10:14,638 --> 00:10:19,138
（吉米·陈）

115
00:10:16,700 --> 00:10:19,620
只跟我了解并信任的人一起行动
with people that I know and that I trust.

116
00:10:19,703 --> 00:10:21,789
这条规矩只有一个例外
And there's one exception to that rule...

117
00:10:21,872 --> 00:10:27,169
那就是如果一个我非常非常信任 并且了解的人，比如康拉德
and that's if somebody that I really, really trust and know well, like Conrad...

118
00:10:27,253 --> 00:10:30,089
他水哦，这个人值得带上
says, "This guy's worth bringing up."

119
00:10:33,342 --> 00:10:36,804
我听说了雷南，并在一部 关于攀登的电影里看过他
[Conrad] I had heard about Renan, and I'd seen him in a climbing film...

120
00:10:36,887 --> 00:10:39,557
他在里面独自攀登北六枪峰
where he was, uh, free soloing North Six Shooter.

121
00:10:40,933 --> 00:10:43,394
我心想，好吧，得认识一下雷南
So I was like, "Okay. Gotta meet Renan."

122
00:10:45,896 --> 00:10:51,652
我看到雷南独自攀爬闪电岩的录像
[Krakauer] I saw this clip of Renan free soloing Lighting Bolt Cracks.

123
00:10:51,735 --> 00:10:54,029
你看到他做那些事情 确实是真刀真枪爬的
You see him do that stuff, and it looks out there.

124
00:10:54,113 --> 00:10:58,492
他看着就好像什么东西 在他脚底下点了一团火
He looks like something's lit a fire under him.

125
00:10:58,576 --> 00:11:02,079
我听说这个孩子是个 极具天分的攀登者
[Jimmy] I heard about this kid who's a super-talented climber.

126
00:11:02,163 --> 00:11:05,082
他跟大部分流浪登山者
And he was living on the road...

127
00:11:05,166 --> 00:11:07,084
特别是来到出发地点的攀登者一样
like most climbing bums...

128
00:11:07,168 --> 00:11:10,671
就住在路边
especially climbers that are coming into the scene.

129
00:11:10,754 --> 00:11:12,715
只是他连车都没有
Except for he didn't even have a car.

130
00:11:12,798 --> 00:11:16,427
他就是搭顺风车进的沙漠
He was literally just dropped off in the desert.

131
00:11:21,140 --> 00:11:22,641
[Pencil Scratching]

132
00:11:26,770 --> 00:11:31,066
第一次见到雷南时，他正在 素描本上画画
When I first met Renan, he was mostly creating art in sketchbooks.

133
00:11:28,500 --> 00:11:33,000
（艾米·辛克丽）

134
00:11:31,150 --> 00:11:33,194
一些小小的画
Smaller-scale stuff.

135
00:11:33,277 --> 00:11:37,198
然后他开始准备巨大的帆布 出去进行远征
And then he started taking big canvases out on expeditions.

136
00:11:37,281 --> 00:11:39,950
因为现在他已经开始进行 更多远征了
Cause he was- At this point, he was starting to go on more expeditions.

137
00:11:40,034 --> 00:11:45,789
他珍惜每次机会，而且几乎从不停止
Every opportunity was appreciated, and he was basically going nonstop.

138
00:11:50,752 --> 00:11:57,252
（第一天，海拔15000英尺）

139
00:12:02,014 --> 00:12:03,515
呼
Whew.

140
00:12:04,725 --> 00:12:08,437
早晨5点30，该出发了
5:30 in the evening. Time to start the route.

141
00:12:10,481 --> 00:12:14,318
现在非常冷
It's... crisp and cold.

142
00:12:14,401 --> 00:12:16,612
我们在等太阳转过去
We're waiting for the sun to move away.

143
00:12:16,695 --> 00:12:18,656
这样碎冰就会冻上
So it'll set up and will freeze.

144
00:12:19,531 --> 00:12:21,325
[Blows]

145
00:12:21,408 --> 00:12:23,369
这是最好的机会
Uh, this is the best moment-

146
00:12:23,452 --> 00:12:28,832
等一切安定下来 你就能真正开始了
That... moment where everything comes down, and you're really starting.

147
00:12:28,916 --> 00:12:32,503
当然，离开根戈德里和波兹南时 我也是这么说的
Of course, I said that when we left Gangotri and when we left Bozeman.

148
00:12:32,586 --> 00:12:37,007
但今晚我们要在山上露营
But... now we're gonna camp on the mountain tonight.

149
00:12:42,346 --> 00:12:45,099
康拉德2003年第一次尝试攀登梅鲁峰
[Krakauer] Conrad first tried Meru in 2003...

150
00:12:45,182 --> 00:12:47,059
结果彻底失败了
and got his ass kicked.

151
00:12:47,142 --> 00:12:50,396
这是非常需要技巧的攀登 不比珠穆朗玛峰
It was super-technical climbing. This isn't Everest.

152
00:12:50,479 --> 00:12:52,773
这是完全不同的攀登
This is a whole different kind of climbing.

153
00:12:52,856 --> 00:12:55,776
因为在珠穆朗玛峰你可以雇夏尔巴人 帮你背东西
Cause on Everest, you can hire Sherpas to carry all your stuff...

154
00:12:55,859 --> 00:12:58,320
为你修绳子，承担大部分的风险
to fix the ropes for you, to take most of the risks.

155
00:12:58,404 --> 00:13:00,948
吉米和康拉德已经爬了4,5次珠峰
Jimmy and Conrad have climbed Everest four or five times.

156
00:13:01,031 --> 00:13:02,950
吉米还在峰顶滑过雪
Jimmy's even skied off the top.

157
00:13:03,033 --> 00:13:05,119
但梅鲁和珠峰完全相反
But Meru is the anti-Everest.

158
00:13:05,202 --> 00:13:07,037
没人会给你背东西
No one's gonna carry your stuff.

159
00:13:07,121 --> 00:13:09,707
如果你需要什么 就得自己背在背上
If you need it, you need to carry it on your back.

160
00:13:09,790 --> 00:13:12,418
对梅鲁来说，为了攀登 你得带上很多东西
And for Meru, you need a lot of tools to do the job.

161
00:13:12,501 --> 00:13:15,212
因为一路你都在不停攀爬
Because the climbing covers the whole spectrum.

162
00:13:16,380 --> 00:13:19,967
这一段1500英尺的垂直岩壁，鲨鱼鳍 还算是光滑
This upper 1,500 feet, the Shark's Fin, is smooth.

163
00:13:20,050 --> 00:13:22,845
它非常干净，几乎毫无难度
It's clean. It's nearly featureless.

164
00:13:22,928 --> 00:13:27,599
但在那之下是4000英尺的 粗糙的岩壁，上面堆积着雪
But below that is 4,000 feet of really gnarly climbing- this fluted snow.

165
00:13:27,683 --> 00:13:29,184
非常危险而且暴露在风中
Dangerous, exposed.

166
00:13:30,936 --> 00:13:35,065
所以人们会反复轻装尝试 那段4000英尺的路程
So, time after time, guys would do that first 4,000 feet, light and fast...

167
00:13:35,149 --> 00:13:36,859
以为自己真的能行了
thinkin' they're really studs.

168
00:13:36,942 --> 00:13:39,320
然后他们到达鲨鱼鳍下 那是面巨大的墙壁
And then they get to the Fin, and it's a big wall.

169
00:13:39,403 --> 00:13:42,197
在梅鲁的上半部分你得使用 攀登大块岩壁的技巧
And you gotta use big wall techniques on the upper part of Meru.

170
00:13:42,281 --> 00:13:44,658
那种攀登你得慢慢来
And you gotta go slow for that kind of climbing.

171
00:13:44,742 --> 00:13:47,244
可能一天只能爬200英尺
Maybe you'll only do 200 feet in a day.

172
00:13:47,328 --> 00:13:50,539
要爬上那1500英尺可能会 花去你6,7天
Maybe it's gonna take you six or seven days to do that top 1,500 feet.

173
00:13:50,622 --> 00:13:53,862
如果要慢慢来花上那么长时间 你就需要悬挂帐篷
And if it's gonna take you that long, if you're going slow, you need a portaledge.

174
00:13:53,917 --> 00:13:56,378
你需要食物，水和燃料
You need food and water and fuel.

175
00:13:56,462 --> 00:13:59,006
这些东西加一起就快200磅了
Pretty soon, that's, like, 200 pounds of stuff.

176
00:13:59,089 --> 00:14:01,842
你还需要巨大的挂墙架 一个50磅重的铁疙瘩
You need a big wall rack, 50 pounds of iron.

177
00:14:01,925 --> 00:14:06,347
所以你得背着那200都磅的废品 爬上最初的4000英尺
So you gotta get that 200 pounds of crap up the first 4,000 feet.

178
00:14:06,430 --> 00:14:08,140
没有哪一个初次攀登的人
And none of the previous climbers-

179
00:14:08,223 --> 00:14:10,642
包括康拉德，都不相信这些
and Conrad, his first time- they couldn't believe that.

180
00:14:10,726 --> 00:14:13,645
他们不打算那么爬
- They're not gonna climb that way. - [Groans]

181
00:14:13,729 --> 00:14:17,524
驼峰一样的路，有点感觉到 海拔的影响了
Humpin' loads. Feel the altitude a bit.

182
00:14:17,608 --> 00:14:20,027
但康拉德在第一次尝试后说
[Krakauer] But Conrad after that first time said, "Huh."

183
00:14:20,110 --> 00:14:22,571
原来是这样，我懂了，这是上帝显灵
Here's the deal. I see this, this epiphany.

184
00:14:22,654 --> 00:14:25,949
你得通过攀爬岩墙来把东西弄上去
You gotta do this big wall style and get your stuff up there.

185
00:14:26,033 --> 00:14:28,452
[Footsteps In Snow]

186
00:14:42,299 --> 00:14:43,425
- [Metal Clinking] - [Murmurs]

187
00:14:43,509 --> 00:14:45,761
- 伙计，怎么样 - 还...
- [Jimmy] Man, how's it going? - It's goin'-

188
00:14:47,304 --> 00:14:51,767
夜间行动，现在暂时不爬了 幸好螺丝都很硬
Nighttime ops. Out climbing. Luckily, the screws are solid.

189
00:14:54,436 --> 00:14:56,647
我们为什么要做这些？
Now, why do we do this stuff?

190
00:14:57,981 --> 00:15:00,776
风景，风景
The view. The view.

191
00:15:08,117 --> 00:15:11,912
现在应该是凌晨2点，我们在山脊
I think it's 2:00 in the morning. We went for the ghetto bivy...

192
00:15:11,995 --> 00:15:14,206
而不是平台上搭好了睡袋
on the shoulder instead of setting up the ledge.

193
00:15:14,289 --> 00:15:18,085
这样要轻松一点，我有些韩国...
It's a lot easier. We got some Korean-

194
00:15:18,168 --> 00:15:23,048
告诉我没有搭设任何帐篷的真正原因
[Jimmy] Tell us the reason why- the real reason why we didn't set up anything.

195
00:15:23,132 --> 00:15:26,635
因为我们有点担心
- [Both Chuckle] - 'Cause we're worked a little bit maybe.

196
00:15:28,178 --> 00:15:32,808
情况可能会更严重，现在天空 可能会朝我们倾泻下来
Could be worse. The sky could be, like, unloading on us right now.

197
00:15:34,768 --> 00:15:37,187
看看这里的情况
Look what's happening over here.

198
00:15:38,522 --> 00:15:41,483
那是康拉德躺在雪中
That's Conrad lying in the snow.

199
00:15:42,776 --> 00:15:45,821
这是我可怜的睡袋
And here's my really pathetic bivy.

200
00:15:45,904 --> 00:15:48,866
好惨啊
[Shivering] Oh, grim.

201
00:15:48,949 --> 00:15:52,744
你知道很惨，特别是...对
You know it's grim when you're- Yeah.

202
00:15:52,828 --> 00:15:55,622
特别是睡袋直接扔在雪莉的时候 - 对
- When you bivy directly on the snow. - [Jimmy] Yeah.

203
00:15:55,706 --> 00:15:58,459
而且睡袋也有点结冰了
And it's snowing out a little bit too.

204
00:15:58,542 --> 00:16:01,795
[Jimmy Chuckles]

205
00:16:05,799 --> 00:16:11,054
<i>♪♪ [Vocalizing]</i>

206
00:16:16,477 --> 00:16:17,728
[Breathes Heavily]

207
00:16:32,993 --> 00:16:35,996
第一缕阳光
[Sighs] Very first light.

208
00:16:37,331 --> 00:16:40,083
从2点就开始了
Goin' since... 2:00-ish.

209
00:16:41,251 --> 00:16:42,251
[Sighs]

210
00:16:42,294 --> 00:16:45,088
[Wind Whooshing]

211
00:16:46,924 --> 00:16:51,595
今天已经犯了一些错误了
Pretty much made a bunch of mistakes already today.

212
00:16:51,678 --> 00:16:53,180
好像又一次
Takin' me to school...

213
00:16:53,263 --> 00:16:55,015
回到学校
Yet again.

214
00:16:55,098 --> 00:16:57,976
但我们进展很顺利
But, we're makin' good progress...

215
00:16:58,060 --> 00:17:01,188
把200磅的负重
haulin' 200-pound loads...

216
00:17:01,271 --> 00:17:04,066
送上了位于16000英尺的
up a 3,000-foot snow filter...

217
00:17:05,108 --> 00:17:06,944
3000英尺的雪层上
at 16,000 feet.

218
00:17:07,528 --> 00:17:09,029
[Sighs]

219
00:17:16,328 --> 00:17:18,956
那片云很快就要来了
See that system comin' in here pretty soon.

220
00:17:22,292 --> 00:17:25,087
康拉德一起在世界各地进行过一些
[Jimmy] Conrad and I have been through some tough expeditions together...

221
00:17:25,170 --> 00:17:27,130
非常艰难的探险
all around the world.

222
00:17:28,298 --> 00:17:31,176
我们攀登过巴基斯坦的K7
We were on K7 in Pakistan.

223
00:17:31,260 --> 00:17:34,638
在德纳里峰滑雪，一起攀登过珠峰
We skied Denali, and we've been on Everest together.

224
00:17:34,721 --> 00:17:35,722
[Shutter Clicks]

225
00:17:35,806 --> 00:17:39,017
康拉德在登山者中的名声完美无瑕
Conrad's reputation among climbers is flawless.

226
00:17:41,270 --> 00:17:44,648
讽刺的是他是因为在 攀登珠峰的过程中找到了马洛里的尸体
The irony is he became world famous for finding Mallory's body...

227
00:17:44,731 --> 00:17:46,275
才闻名世界
during an Everest climb...

228
00:17:46,358 --> 00:17:49,403
而不是凭借自己挑战世界各地 奇难险阻而出名
instead of for his difficult first ascents around the world.

229
00:17:53,365 --> 00:17:57,160
大部分我这一代攀登者都是看着 他的探险故事长大的
Most of my generation of climbers grew up following his expeditions.

230
00:17:59,329 --> 00:18:03,250
那时候我根本想象不到 居然能跟他一起攀登
Back then I'd never imagined I'd actually get to climb with him.

231
00:18:03,333 --> 00:18:07,337
所以也很难相信我们居然能 作为攀登搭档合作7年
So it's hard to believe this will be almost seven years as climbing partners.

232
00:18:10,424 --> 00:18:14,177
雪有点大
- [Chuckles] - [Jimmy] It got a little snowy.

233
00:18:14,845 --> 00:18:16,346
对
[Conrad] Yup.

234
00:18:16,430 --> 00:18:19,975
但我们一心往上爬 - 对
- But we're committed to going up. - Yeah.

235
00:18:20,058 --> 00:18:22,477
只是会稍微下点雪，不过挺好的
It's only gonna be snowy for a little bit. Then it's gonna be nice.

236
00:18:22,561 --> 00:18:24,396
对吧？
Right? [Chuckles]

237
00:18:24,479 --> 00:18:27,190
我们现在就跟盯着一个乒乓球内部一样
Meanwhile we look out into inside of a Ping-Pong ball.

238
00:18:27,274 --> 00:18:30,319
[Snow Landing]

239
00:18:30,402 --> 00:18:33,989
[Wind Whooshing]

240
00:18:30,796 --> 00:18:36,296
（第三天，海拔16300英尺）

241
00:18:36,908 --> 00:18:38,410
风暴来了
[Jimmy's Voice] A storm came...

242
00:18:38,493 --> 00:18:41,288
我们挣扎着搭好悬挂帐篷
and we fought to build our hanging portaledge camp.

243
00:18:41,371 --> 00:18:42,623
喔，干得好
[Jimmy] Whoo! Nice work!

244
00:18:42,706 --> 00:18:46,793
这东西有点像上面挂了个帐篷的吊床
[Jimmy's Voice] Which is basically a hanging cot with a tent over it.

245
00:18:48,629 --> 00:18:53,884
- [Wind Whooshing] - [Tent Flapping]

246
00:18:53,967 --> 00:18:57,804
天啊 - 好了
- Holy Jesus. - Okay, good.

247
00:18:59,348 --> 00:19:00,849
噢
Ooh.

248
00:19:01,350 --> 00:19:03,894
[Rumbling]

249
00:19:09,107 --> 00:19:12,361
然后我们开始听到一侧山峰发生雪崩
[Jimmy's Voice] Then we start hearing the avalanches coming off on the side...

250
00:19:13,070 --> 00:19:15,072
雪从你身边滚滚而下
ripping out next to you.

251
00:19:20,661 --> 00:19:22,663
[Snow Rumbling]

252
00:19:22,746 --> 00:19:26,500
[Chuckling, Sighs]

253
00:19:26,583 --> 00:19:29,378
[Hissing]

254
00:19:30,337 --> 00:19:31,505
喔
[Renan] Whoa.

255
00:19:39,137 --> 00:19:41,390
[Hissing]

256
00:19:42,432 --> 00:19:44,434
- [Zips] - [Wind Whistling]

257
00:19:44,518 --> 00:19:47,312
看，外面下雪了
[Jimmy] Look, it's snowing outside.

258
00:19:47,396 --> 00:19:50,357
[Wind Whooshing]

259
00:19:50,440 --> 00:19:53,360
住在悬挂帐篷里，外面还下雪
[Conrad] Living in a portaledge, and it's snowing.

260
00:19:53,443 --> 00:19:56,905
我感觉有点像圣诞节了
- I kind of feel like Christmas somehow. - [Jimmy Chuckles]

261
00:19:56,988 --> 00:19:59,950
我们一直都想要这样的圣诞节 身边就是暴风雪
[Conrad] This is what we want for Christmas- a snowstorm and...

262
00:20:00,033 --> 00:20:03,161
然后坐在... - 坐在鲨鱼鳍上？
- to sit here in the- - [Jimmy] On the Shark's Fin?

263
00:20:03,245 --> 00:20:08,208
- 对 - 还全身湿透，太棒了
- [Conrad] Yeah. - [Jimmy] All soaking wet. Awesome.

264
00:20:14,131 --> 00:20:15,924
[Wind Blowing]

265
00:20:16,007 --> 00:20:19,720
所以我们在那住了1天，2天
[Jimmy] And so, we're there for a day. Then we're there for two days.

266
00:20:19,803 --> 00:20:21,555
接着又住了第三天
Then we're there for three days.

267
00:20:21,638 --> 00:20:26,059
我们在悬挂帐篷里被困了4天
And basically, we're stuck on the portaledge for four days.

268
00:20:27,644 --> 00:20:30,397
那是我见过的最大的暴风雪之一
[Renan] It was... one of the biggest storms I'd ever seen.

269
00:20:30,480 --> 00:20:33,066
我们在暴雪里被困了4天
It was four days in the storm...

270
00:20:33,150 --> 00:20:36,862
但总共只有7天的食物
and we had only seven days of food total.

271
00:20:36,945 --> 00:20:42,117
所以最后我们消耗了大量食物
So, we ended up, you know, depleting a lot of our food supply.

272
00:20:43,660 --> 00:20:46,663
食物已经消耗过半了
We had essentially lost half our food.

273
00:20:46,747 --> 00:20:50,083
但还有90%的攀登没完成
And 90% of the mountain was still above us.

274
00:20:56,131 --> 00:20:59,760
这就是轮回，痛苦的睡袋
It's Samsara- the bivy of suffering.

275
00:21:01,928 --> 00:21:04,639
我心想，好吧，结束了
[Renan's Voice] I thought, "Okay, it's over.

276
00:21:04,723 --> 00:21:08,101
我们尽力了
We've had a good run at it."

277
00:21:08,185 --> 00:21:11,897
好冷啊，前几天照着我们的太阳哪去了
Cold. Where's the sun we had the last couple days?

278
00:21:11,980 --> 00:21:13,648
我们都要冻死了
We're up here freezing.

279
00:21:14,858 --> 00:21:16,651
这对我来说太难接受
[Renan's Voice] This is too much for me.

280
00:21:16,735 --> 00:21:20,781
我已经想尽办法了 而且很高兴能有这段经历
I'm in over my head. And I'm glad to have the experience...

281
00:21:20,864 --> 00:21:23,492
但我也很高兴明天我们就要下山
but I'm also glad that we're going down tomorrow.

282
00:21:31,792 --> 00:21:33,668
风暴终于过去了
[Jimmy] The storm clears finally.

283
00:21:33,752 --> 00:21:37,964
你知道，在我心里，我想好吧
And you know, in my head, I'm like, "Okay, you know...

284
00:21:38,048 --> 00:21:40,884
现在该走了，风暴结束了
now it's time to move. Storm's over."

285
00:21:43,720 --> 00:21:49,184
所以当我们那天开始穿戴装具 准备攀登的时候
So when we started gearing up that day and getting ready to climb...

286
00:21:49,267 --> 00:21:53,313
雷南真的有点搞不清楚 该走哪个方向
you know, there was some confusion, I think, for Renan, that we were going-

287
00:21:53,396 --> 00:21:56,733
因为我们是要往上而不是往下
uh, you know, that we were going up as opposed to down.

288
00:21:56,817 --> 00:21:59,736
好吧
- [Renan, indistinct] - Okay.

289
00:22:00,737 --> 00:22:02,322
[Murmuring]

290
00:22:03,865 --> 00:22:07,118
他们开始穿戴准备继续攀登
[Renan] They just started racking up to continue up the mountain.

291
00:22:07,202 --> 00:22:11,206
我不知道为什么 也不知道他们是怎么想的
I didn't know why or how- what they were thinking.

292
00:22:11,289 --> 00:22:12,874
特别是康拉德
And especially Conrad.

293
00:22:12,958 --> 00:22:17,420
我从没见过他对攀登这么充满干劲
I'd never seen him so... motivated... about a climb.

294
00:22:19,507 --> 00:22:23,507
（第8天，海拔17000英尺）

295
00:22:34,521 --> 00:22:36,731
攀登是非常危险的运动
[Conrad] Climbing's a really dangerous sport.

296
00:22:36,815 --> 00:22:41,361
一个好的搭档会让你发挥出极限
And a good partner will push you to the summit...

297
00:22:41,444 --> 00:22:46,283
但同时也能让你注意到 可能遇到的风险
but at the same time, keep you aware of the risks that are involved with it.

298
00:22:55,166 --> 00:22:58,044
正在挂悬挂帐篷
[Renan] Belaying out of the portaledge...

299
00:22:59,796 --> 00:23:03,592
对同伴百分百信任是种很特别的感觉
[Conrad] That 100% trust in your partner is pretty special.

300
00:23:05,552 --> 00:23:07,053
我觉得雷南很震惊
I think Renan was shocked...

301
00:23:07,137 --> 00:23:09,723
因为他从没有过这样的体验
because he hadn't ever really had anything at that extent.

302
00:23:09,806 --> 00:23:12,809
吉米和我是过来人
And Jimmy and I, we'd been through that.

303
00:23:16,146 --> 00:23:21,234
我们正在克服难关 要明白其实没有那么糟糕
We're pushing on through it, and it's that understanding of "It's not that bad."

304
00:23:21,318 --> 00:23:22,986
这时候你就需要一个导师
And that's where a mentor comes in.

305
00:23:27,240 --> 00:23:31,244
攀登是一种奇怪的技术 它是一代一代传下去的
Climbing is this weird craft, you know, passed down from generation to generation.

306
00:23:31,328 --> 00:23:33,580
要学习你就得有个导师
The way you learn is you have a mentor.

307
00:23:34,623 --> 00:23:38,793
康拉德是在马格斯·斯坦普的 脚下学到的
Conrad learned at the feet of Mugs Stump.

308
00:23:38,877 --> 00:23:42,839
康拉德是个年轻的优秀人才，而马格斯 是世界上最优秀的登山者之一
Conrad was this young phenom, and Mugs was one of the great climbers in the world.

309
00:23:42,923 --> 00:23:45,800
马格斯非常优秀，他把我收入麾下
[Conrad] Mugs was great. He took me under his wing.

310
00:23:43,923 --> 00:23:46,923
（马格斯·斯坦普）

311
00:23:45,884 --> 00:23:48,345
他就是师父而我则像只小蚱蜢
He was the sensei, and I was the grasshopper.

312
00:23:48,428 --> 00:23:50,472
他推动我
He pushed me.

313
00:23:50,555 --> 00:23:55,268
他将一枚璞玉雕凿成型
He had taken what was unshapen and given shape to it.

314
00:23:55,352 --> 00:24:00,148
直到今天这依然是我生命中 非常重要的部分
Still, to this day, a very important part of my life.

315
00:24:01,733 --> 00:24:04,778
康拉德找到了完美的导师
[Krakauer] So Conrad, he'd found the perfect mentor.

316
00:24:04,861 --> 00:24:08,073
马格斯会把他带到自己的车里立起经幡
And Mugs would take him into his van and lift the prayer flag...

317
00:24:08,156 --> 00:24:11,451
他有一个特别的目标 就是一座叫做梅鲁的山峰
and there's his special goal, which is this peak called Meru.

318
00:24:11,534 --> 00:24:13,203
康拉德就像，“噢”
And Conrad was like, "Ooh."

319
00:24:14,496 --> 00:24:17,874
马格斯尝试过两次 应该是在86和88年
And Mugs tried it twice- I think in '86 and '88.

320
00:24:17,958 --> 00:24:20,669
两次都因为种种原因失败了
Failed both times, for all kinds of reasons.

321
00:24:20,752 --> 00:24:25,131
但对马格斯来说这没有让他消沉 他是个志向远大的攀登者
But to Mugs, this didn't deter him. This was- He is the cosmic climber...

322
00:24:25,215 --> 00:24:28,301
这只是他计划的一部分 他是一定会回去的
and this is all part of the cosmic plan, and he was gonna go back.

323
00:24:28,385 --> 00:24:32,305
这一定也对康拉德 造成了很大的影响
And I'm sure Conrad- That made a huge impression on him.

324
00:24:32,389 --> 00:24:36,559
所以之后在1992年，我第一次 见到康拉德2年后
So then, 1992, two years after I met Conrad...

325
00:24:36,643 --> 00:24:39,980
马格斯在德纳里峰为非法攀登者 做向导时死了
uh, Mugs died on Denali, guiding a bootleg client.

326
00:24:40,063 --> 00:24:42,774
[Wind Blowing]

327
00:24:42,857 --> 00:24:45,819
我当时在盐湖城工作 正准备去攀登
[Conrad] I was working in Salt Lake and went climbing.

328
00:24:45,902 --> 00:24:47,612
我们在开车返回的路上
And, uh, we were driving back.

329
00:24:47,696 --> 00:24:52,283
我朋友道格说，嘿 马格斯好像死了
And my friend Doug said, "Hey, we think Mugs has died."

330
00:24:53,868 --> 00:24:59,290
我很清楚的记得道格是在 洲际公路上说出那句话的
I remember exactly on the interstate where Doug had that conversation.

331
00:24:59,374 --> 00:25:01,835
我反应就像“操”
I was like, "Oh, fuck!"

332
00:25:01,918 --> 00:25:04,379
因为我一直觉得那种事不会发生
Because I always thought that shit like that's gonna happen.

333
00:25:04,462 --> 00:25:07,590
不可能发生在马格斯身上 他是最优秀的
But it's not gonna happen to Mugs. He was the best.

334
00:25:12,271 --> 00:25:16,771
（第10天，海拔18000英尺）

335
00:25:27,610 --> 00:25:31,114
有时候和你的导师一起攀登 是很危险的
[Renan] Climbing with your mentor is a dangerous thing sometimes...

336
00:25:31,197 --> 00:25:33,742
因为你会把所有的信任 托付在他身上
because you give them all of your trust.

337
00:25:33,825 --> 00:25:37,704
我给了他们一切
I gave them everything, and...

338
00:25:37,787 --> 00:25:42,417
每天我的思想都在不断斗争
there was a constant battle in my mind every day.

339
00:25:50,216 --> 00:25:53,887
我非常冷，控制不住的发抖
I'd be freezing, shivering uncontrollably...

340
00:25:55,221 --> 00:25:58,558
但我绝对不想成为那个说
But I definitely didn't want to be the guy that said...

341
00:25:58,641 --> 00:26:01,061
“噢，我好冷，我想下去”的人
Oh, I'm cold. I want to go down.

342
00:26:02,645 --> 00:26:04,647
松了？
[Renan] Loose, eh?

343
00:26:04,731 --> 00:26:09,152
太阳被遮挡住时气温肯定有零下20度
[Renan's Voice] It must have been negative 20 when the sun went around the corner.

344
00:26:10,653 --> 00:26:14,574
在那种温度下尝试攀登是很费力的
It's debilitating trying to climb in those kind of temperatures.

345
00:26:17,243 --> 00:26:19,954
关键就是在岩石缝隙之间攀登
[Renan] It's all about climbing the cracks.

346
00:26:21,831 --> 00:26:24,584
我在这里找不到
I don't see any here. [Chuckles]

347
00:26:26,252 --> 00:26:29,172
我们到达了这片平整无暇的岩石
[Renan's Voice] We'd hit these totally blank sections of rock.

348
00:26:29,255 --> 00:26:32,383
我很肯定没有别的路可走
And I was sure there wasn't anywhere else to go.

349
00:26:35,512 --> 00:26:39,974
但后来吉米或者康拉德 肯定会想办法出发
But then Jimmy or Conrad would launch into the void.

350
00:26:48,358 --> 00:26:52,112
这么陡，这是现代A4E攀登工具
[Krakauer] You know, this is steep, modern A4 E-climbing.

351
00:26:52,195 --> 00:26:54,447
它需要运用工具，你就像个手艺人
It's using tools. You're a craftsman...

352
00:26:54,531 --> 00:26:56,741
拍打，敲凿，拧捏
tapping and pounding and tweaking.

353
00:26:56,825 --> 00:26:58,868
他就像个细活木匠
And he's like this cabinetmaker...

354
00:26:58,952 --> 00:27:02,288
将一块胡桃木雕凿成柜子
chiseling away at this cabinet out of walnut or something.

355
00:27:02,372 --> 00:27:06,626
作为家具工，如果你 多凿那木头一次
Except, you know, if you hit that chisel one more time and you're a cabinetmaker...

356
00:27:06,709 --> 00:27:09,629
可能就会敲碎它，毁掉整个作品
maybe you split it and you ruin this cabinet- bummer.

357
00:27:09,712 --> 00:27:13,716
如果用A4凿子，你把那缝隙凿开了 你就死定了
If on an A4 pitch, you, like, split the cabinet, you die.

358
00:27:37,949 --> 00:27:40,076
我就在这扎营
Yeah, I'll tent right there.

359
00:27:40,160 --> 00:27:42,078
你要在这吗？你想在哪？
Uh, you wanna be here? Where you wanna be?

360
00:27:42,162 --> 00:27:45,081
我无所谓，就在这个边缘吧 我先在这坐会
I don't care. I'm right on this edge. I'll sit here for now.

361
00:27:45,165 --> 00:27:47,458
我这有热睡袋
I got some hot bevies.

362
00:27:47,542 --> 00:27:51,796
你很难高估现在自己的状况
[Jimmy's Voice] It's hard to overstate what kind of condition we were in.

363
00:27:51,880 --> 00:27:54,674
勉勉强强
Barely. [Sighs]

364
00:27:54,757 --> 00:28:00,013
我们真的早上只能吃几勺麦片
We're literally down to eating a couple spoonfuls of granola in the morning...

365
00:28:00,096 --> 00:28:03,349
白天就一起分几片意大利香肠
and sharing a couple slices of salami during the day...

366
00:28:03,433 --> 00:28:04,934
再加上几片奶酪
with couple pieces of cheese.

367
00:28:05,018 --> 00:28:09,063
我们现在的配给已经达到极限了
I mean, we're definitely on pretty limited rations at this point.

368
00:28:10,732 --> 00:28:12,650
烧烤
- [Conrad] Roasty. - [Renan Chuckles]

369
00:28:13,985 --> 00:28:18,698
对于用一小罐丙烷烧火的登山者来说
For climbers over a stove on a half-empty jug of propane...

370
00:28:18,781 --> 00:28:20,825
没什么比烧烤奶酪皮更好吃的了
there's nothing finer than roasting the rind.

371
00:28:20,909 --> 00:28:23,494
会很好吃的
It becomes quite tasty.

372
00:28:24,996 --> 00:28:28,958
就是吃你剩下的任何东西
[Jimmy] 'Cause basically eating everything that you have left.

373
00:28:29,042 --> 00:28:31,211
超级效率
Super efficient.

374
00:28:31,294 --> 00:28:35,965
下星期我们就只能吃自己的靴子了
Next week, we'll be eating our boots. [Chuckles]

375
00:28:40,470 --> 00:28:42,639
[Metal Clinking]

376
00:28:43,323 --> 00:28:48,323
（第13天，海拔19000英尺）

377
00:28:50,146 --> 00:28:55,401
康拉德经常聊如何让风险可控
[Krakauer] You know, Conrad talks a lot about how to keep the risk manageable.

378
00:28:55,485 --> 00:28:59,239
聊危险也分可接受的危险 和不可接受的
Talks about there's acceptable risk and unacceptable risk.

379
00:28:59,322 --> 00:29:03,284
但他总是游走在边缘 保持风险可以接受
But he always keeps it on the acceptable side by leaving this margin.

380
00:29:04,244 --> 00:29:05,745
天啊
Om, shanti.

381
00:29:05,828 --> 00:29:09,832
但，你知道，他以前尝试过 这条攀登路线
[Krakauer Continues] But... you know, he had tried this climb before...

382
00:29:09,916 --> 00:29:13,503
但失败了，即使他自己不承认
failed, and even if he didn't admit it to himself...

383
00:29:13,586 --> 00:29:18,341
但为了成功，他就必须把 聊天中的那一套扔在脑后
to succeed, he was gonna have to throw that conservative stuff out the window...

384
00:29:18,424 --> 00:29:20,760
在这次行程中承担巨大的风险
and take mega-risk on this.

385
00:29:24,764 --> 00:29:27,267
但你知道，如果他们想活下去
But, you know, if they want to stay alive...

386
00:29:27,350 --> 00:29:29,602
就不能彻底胡来
they cannot fuck up at all.

387
00:29:29,686 --> 00:29:33,856
他也提到过，如果失败了 会让家人非常失望
And he talked about, "If I die, I've really let down my family.

388
00:29:33,940 --> 00:29:36,192
我不能犯任何错误
I cannot make any mistakes."

389
00:29:36,276 --> 00:29:38,611
如果你在山上这可不是很好的想法
That's not good to be thinkin' when you're that far out there.

390
00:29:38,695 --> 00:29:42,365
但他就在想，伙计，我不能死
He is thinkin', "Man, I cannot die now...

391
00:29:42,448 --> 00:29:44,701
我要为了妻子和孩子们坚持下去
because then I've blown it for my wife and kids."

392
00:29:46,911 --> 00:29:48,830
珍妮根本不知道
Jenni has no idea.

393
00:29:48,913 --> 00:29:52,542
她根本不知道他究竟在那里做什么
She has no fucking idea what he is really doin' out there.

394
00:29:53,334 --> 00:29:56,212
[Sighs]

395
00:30:01,676 --> 00:30:04,053
[Jimmy Sighs]

396
00:30:04,137 --> 00:30:06,014
该死
Fuck.

397
00:30:06,097 --> 00:30:08,975
我们都有点累了
We're all just kind of frayed.

398
00:30:09,058 --> 00:30:13,730
在这里呆了16天，尽了一切努力
Sixteen days up here, just givin' it everything we have.

399
00:30:14,731 --> 00:30:16,691
进度非常缓慢
It's been really slow.

400
00:30:17,775 --> 00:30:20,820
事实上我们已经没有燃料了
And, uh, we're running out of fuel actually.

401
00:30:21,904 --> 00:30:24,782
也没有食物，香烟和纸张
Um, and food. And cigarettes and papers.

402
00:30:24,866 --> 00:30:28,661
明天就需要做出决定
But tomorrow is kind of the decider.

403
00:30:28,745 --> 00:30:31,581
如果我们...
If we, uh...

404
00:30:31,664 --> 00:30:34,751
没有征服这一面巨大而陡峭的拱璧
don't get up and around this big, steep headwall...

405
00:30:36,919 --> 00:30:39,213
我们就得放弃，但是...
we're gonna have to pull the cord, but, uh...

406
00:30:39,297 --> 00:30:42,759
我们明天还有最后的机会
we got one last push tomorrow.

407
00:30:45,428 --> 00:30:47,388
[Chuckles]

408
00:30:49,640 --> 00:30:54,020
吉米的优点是 他非常的理性，敢担当
Jimmy's strength is that he's very rational and accepting...

409
00:30:54,103 --> 00:30:56,272
对我们的情况很了解
and real in what we can do.

410
00:30:57,440 --> 00:31:00,360
我们第一次见面的时候 我就马上意识到...
When we first met, I realized right away...

411
00:31:00,443 --> 00:31:03,363
我们之间会是一种师徒关系
there was a mentorship that was going to blossom.

412
00:31:03,446 --> 00:31:08,868
我也很快感受到他的 奋发图强和决定
I also immediately sensed that he was driven and determined.

413
00:31:08,951 --> 00:31:12,246
我不知道为什么
- And I never really knew why. - [Shutter Clicking]

414
00:31:12,914 --> 00:31:14,457
[Shutter Clicks]

415
00:31:14,540 --> 00:31:17,210
我父母叫我小胖
My parents called me Xiao-pang.

416
00:31:17,293 --> 00:31:19,253
意思是“小胖子”
It means "Little Chub."

417
00:31:19,337 --> 00:31:24,175
我父母在共产主义革命时期 不得不逃离中国
[Jimmy's Voice] My parents had to escape from China during the Communist Revolution.

418
00:31:24,258 --> 00:31:25,968
他们都经历过很多事情
They both went through a lot.

419
00:31:27,428 --> 00:31:30,390
他们来到美国开始新生活
They came to the United States to make a new life.

420
00:31:30,473 --> 00:31:34,060
我认为他们对我有着很高的期望
And I think they had really high expectations for me.

421
00:31:34,727 --> 00:31:37,939
我父亲是个凶悍的人
My dad was a hard-ass.

422
00:31:38,022 --> 00:31:41,275
在冬天，我们会有很多的木头取暖
In the wintertime, we would get cords of wood to heat the house.

423
00:31:41,359 --> 00:31:44,278
他会把木头放在我们那个大院里
And he'd put it in the back of this huge yard we had...

424
00:31:44,362 --> 00:31:48,116
然后让我在齐膝深的雪里 用雪橇拖回去
and make me drag it back on a sled in thigh-deep snow.

425
00:31:50,159 --> 00:31:52,286
他真的十分严格
He was really about being tough.

426
00:31:53,913 --> 00:31:56,666
对于他们来说 登山不是职业
Mountain climbing, it wasn't a career to them.

427
00:31:56,353 --> 00:32:00,175
（姐姐：格蕾丝·陈）

428
00:31:56,749 --> 00:31:59,252
我妈妈以前总是跟我打电话...
My mom used to call me all the time...

429
00:31:59,335 --> 00:32:03,047
哀叹她的儿子是个无家可归的人...
and lament about the fact her son was this homeless man...

430
00:32:03,131 --> 00:32:07,093
一直到处徘徊，露营，没有家
who wandered around and camped and didn't have a home.

431
00:32:07,176 --> 00:32:09,345
[Sizzling]

432
00:32:09,429 --> 00:32:12,140
但是当我经历完一段 艰难的离婚过程后...
But when I went through a difficult divorce...

433
00:32:12,223 --> 00:32:15,726
打电话给吉米，不停的哭泣和抱怨...
and called Jimmy, crying, upset...

434
00:32:15,810 --> 00:32:19,772
他说的第一句话是 ”来和我一起生活“
his first words were, "Come stay with me."

435
00:32:19,856 --> 00:32:23,734
于是，我们就那样 搬进了他的单身公寓
So, we just moved into his bachelor pad.

436
00:32:23,818 --> 00:32:26,737
两个孩子，把他们的玩具都带上了
Two kids, all their markers and Legos. [Chuckles]

437
00:32:26,821 --> 00:32:27,821
是的
Yeah.

438
00:32:27,864 --> 00:32:29,532
他就那样接受了我们
And he just took us right in.

439
00:32:33,202 --> 00:32:36,956
你知道，他是一个非常成熟的登山者
[Krakauer] You know, he's another one of these extremely accomplished climbers.

440
00:32:37,039 --> 00:32:38,499
你不会注意到他是个 多么优秀的登山者...
You don't appreciate how good a climber he is...

441
00:32:38,583 --> 00:32:40,751
因为你会被他的作品分心...
because you get distracted by the art...

442
00:32:40,835 --> 00:32:43,463
也许这就是他喜欢的方式
which is probably the way he likes it.

443
00:32:43,546 --> 00:32:47,175
拍照使得攀登的过程更加困难
And taking pictures makes the climbing Way harder.

444
00:32:45,565 --> 00:32:47,174
（《国家地理》前所未有的约塞米蒂）

445
00:32:47,257 --> 00:32:48,772
（《户外》最优秀的冒险家）

446
00:32:47,258 --> 00:32:50,887
他母亲病重的时候他 正在记录珠穆朗玛峰远征
He was filming this Everest expedition, and his morn got really sick.

447
00:32:50,970 --> 00:32:55,308
他知道后就离开了 为了能见母亲最后一面
And he found out about it and had to leave so he could see her before she died.

448
00:32:59,020 --> 00:33:03,065
我母亲很早之前就让我保证 她的意思是...
[Jimmy] My mom had made me promise fairly early on, she was like...

449
00:33:03,149 --> 00:33:06,986
如果你想以这个为生 你就得答应我一件事
If you're gonna make this your life, you need to promise me one thing.

450
00:33:07,069 --> 00:33:11,240
你得保证不死在我前头
You have to promise me that you will not die before me.

451
00:33:11,324 --> 00:33:14,327
所以当我在登山和探险的时候...
And when I was on climbs and on expeditions...

452
00:33:14,410 --> 00:33:18,164
到了一个具体的程度我就会想
I would get to a certain point, and I would say, "Okay.

453
00:33:18,247 --> 00:33:22,335
继续下去有没有破坏承诺的可能？
How close am I willing to go to potentially break that promise?"

454
00:33:22,418 --> 00:33:25,755
所以，在我母亲死后
So, after my mom died...

455
00:33:25,838 --> 00:33:28,841
当我再次到达以前的临界点时
when the climbing started to get into that place...

456
00:33:26,313 --> 00:33:29,347
（珠穆朗玛峰，海拔24000英尺）

457
00:33:28,925 --> 00:33:34,180
就会有”好的，我现在能做了“ 的那种感觉
I remember a moment being like, "Well, I can go for it right now."

458
00:33:35,097 --> 00:33:37,058
[Equipment Jingling]

459
00:33:40,904 --> 00:33:45,655
（第17天，海拔20000英尺）

460
00:33:43,314 --> 00:33:46,234
康拉德在上面，找不到好的立足点
[Renan] Conrad's up there. Can't find good gear.

461
00:33:47,276 --> 00:33:51,364
我们的四肢冻得失去了知觉
Our hands and feet are all frost-numb.

462
00:33:51,447 --> 00:33:52,990
很好，拉德
Nice, Rad.

463
00:33:53,658 --> 00:33:55,493
做得好
Good move.

464
00:33:55,576 --> 00:33:56,869
[Hammering]

465
00:33:56,953 --> 00:34:00,248
我们现在海拔大约是20500英尺
We're probably at about 20,500 feet.

466
00:34:00,331 --> 00:34:02,291
在山脊上
Just short of the ridge.

467
00:34:03,167 --> 00:34:05,294
这里太冷了
It's fucking Arctic.

468
00:34:07,088 --> 00:34:09,257
今天是向顶点冲锋的日子
Today's our summit bid.

469
00:34:17,557 --> 00:34:19,100
过来吧
[Renan] Bring it in.

470
00:34:20,434 --> 00:34:23,229
好的，拉德
- [Conrad] Whoo! - [Renan] Yeah, Rad!

471
00:34:23,312 --> 00:34:26,691
[Pebbles Rattle]

472
00:34:26,774 --> 00:34:28,568
很好
Nice!

473
00:34:28,651 --> 00:34:31,862
攀登游戏的诀窍就是 尽可能好的开辟道路
[Krakauer] The game in climbing is cut that line as fine as you can.

474
00:34:31,946 --> 00:34:34,323
但是你不想进行愚蠢的冒险
But you don't want to take stupid risk.

475
00:34:34,407 --> 00:34:37,618
如果你因为愚蠢的举动死了 那么你就不仅会死...
If you die taking a stupid risk, not only are you dead...

476
00:34:37,702 --> 00:34:40,413
而且会让自己很尴尬 让自己不光彩
but you've embarrassed yourself and you've disgraced yourself.

477
00:34:40,496 --> 00:34:42,623
你不能轻易冒险
You're not supposed to take risk lightly.

478
00:34:42,707 --> 00:34:45,835
你应该表现出你的优异 你对于情况的掌控...
You're supposed to show that you're so good and so controlled...

479
00:34:45,918 --> 00:34:48,504
你能完美的开辟道路，走的更远
you can take it right to that line and go no further.

480
00:34:48,588 --> 00:34:50,089
[Chuckles]

481
00:34:51,674 --> 00:34:55,261
这是个很特别的早晨 我们从两点就开始了
[Jimmy] It's been a super long morning. Started at 2:00.

482
00:34:55,344 --> 00:34:58,014
也许还有500英尺才能到顶点
Probably another 500 feet to the summit.

483
00:34:59,974 --> 00:35:02,268
我们向着顶点的山脊进发
[Jimmy's Voice] We're gunning for the summit ridgeline...

484
00:35:02,351 --> 00:35:07,315
康拉德正在钻过这突出的雪檐
and Conrad's burrowing through this overhanging cornice.

485
00:35:07,398 --> 00:35:10,776
雷南处在火线之中
Renan is in the line of fire.

486
00:35:10,860 --> 00:35:13,946
雪和冰从150英尺高处落下
Snow and ice falling 150 feet...

487
00:35:14,030 --> 00:35:16,449
直接打在雷南身上
just slamming Renan.

488
00:35:16,532 --> 00:35:19,785
被他踢下来的碎冰和雪块
[Renan] All the shrapnel and the ice that he was kicking down...

489
00:35:19,869 --> 00:35:21,996
都落到了我身上
was going directly onto me-

490
00:35:22,079 --> 00:35:23,623
就像是洪水一般
like, constant deluge.

491
00:35:23,706 --> 00:35:28,127
我感觉我的手指和脚趾 在一点点的失去知觉
And I could really feel that I was losing my fingers and toes.

492
00:35:28,210 --> 00:35:33,341
我开始大叫... 大声嚎叫和大呼
I started just screaming... and yelling and crying.

493
00:35:33,424 --> 00:35:36,052
那绝对到达了我的极限
That was my absolute last breaking point.

494
00:35:36,135 --> 00:35:39,972
当我到了上面之后 我说了”我的脚不太好“之类的话
I even said something when I got up there, like, "My feet aren't doing so well."

495
00:35:40,056 --> 00:35:43,184
他们没有回答我说的话
They didn't even acknowledge what I said.

496
00:35:43,267 --> 00:35:47,229
他们当时正说着在那过夜
They were talking about spending the night there.

497
00:35:49,482 --> 00:35:51,602
康纳德和我在谈话...
[Jimmy] Conrad and I are having a conversation like...

498
00:35:51,651 --> 00:35:55,154
讨论是否有适合扎营过夜的地方
Is there a spot to bivy? Is there a spot for us to spend the night?

499
00:35:55,237 --> 00:36:00,868
试着在这个小小的角落睡觉
Trying to sleep perched on this tiny little corner...

500
00:36:00,951 --> 00:36:03,788
在两万英尺的高处，没有睡袋
at 20,000 feet without sleeping bags...

501
00:36:03,871 --> 00:36:07,083
手指和脚趾有坏死的风险
and risk fingers and toes.

502
00:36:10,461 --> 00:36:12,922
如果我们推进呢？我们应该推进吗？
[Jimmy] What if we push on? Should we push on?

503
00:36:13,005 --> 00:36:16,008
如果你选择继续 在那里过夜...
If you go for it and you spend the night out...

504
00:36:16,092 --> 00:36:20,179
也许会发现那里比你想的要高
there's a probability that's higher than you want...

505
00:36:20,262 --> 00:36:23,015
那么你就得回去
that you... aren't gonna come back.

506
00:36:25,267 --> 00:36:28,979
差一点就到顶点了
Just shy of the summit.

507
00:36:29,063 --> 00:36:32,692
现在是四点，第17天
It's 4:00, and we're at 17 days.

508
00:36:32,775 --> 00:36:36,445
我们都累爆了 - 今早午夜就开始了
- We're fuckin' roasted. - Started out this morning at midnight.

509
00:36:36,529 --> 00:36:40,491
如果我们今天尝试登顶 就意味着我们今晚得露营
If we go today and attempt to the summit, that means we're gonna be out tonight...

510
00:36:40,574 --> 00:36:46,205
在非常寒冷的气候下 于两万英尺的地方进行临时露营
and an unplanned bivouac at 20,000 feet in really cold climate...

511
00:36:46,288 --> 00:36:49,959
没有保护措施和足够的食物
without proper protection and without sufficient food...

512
00:36:50,042 --> 00:36:51,794
看来毫无可行性
just doesn't make any sense.

513
00:36:56,298 --> 00:36:58,300
[Exhales]

514
00:37:06,934 --> 00:37:09,228
[Grunts]

515
00:37:09,311 --> 00:37:11,105
结束了
[Renan] It's over.

516
00:37:11,188 --> 00:37:13,941
离顶点一百来米
A hundred meters short of the summit.

517
00:37:14,024 --> 00:37:16,777
我们没有足够的把握做到
We just don't have the safety margin to make it.

518
00:37:19,655 --> 00:37:23,617
转身不简单，但是...
It's not easy turning around. But-

519
00:37:23,701 --> 00:37:25,995
该死，这件事太打击人了
Fuck, this thing was an ass-kicker.

520
00:37:26,078 --> 00:37:28,497
也许它是无法被征服的
Maybe it just wasn't meant to be climbed.

521
00:37:30,583 --> 00:37:33,544
但我不会回来
But I'm not coming back.

522
00:37:33,627 --> 00:37:34,920
[Exhales]

523
00:37:35,004 --> 00:37:39,008
我是说，那太...
I mean, that's just so- [Exhales]

524
00:37:39,091 --> 00:37:41,761
适合？
[Jimmy Fitting?]

525
00:37:41,844 --> 00:37:45,848
宇宙的中心是... - 无法到达
the center of the universe is- - Unattainable.

526
00:37:48,017 --> 00:37:52,021
<i>♪♪ [Man Vocalizing]</i>

527
00:37:57,276 --> 00:37:59,570
当我们最后做出了下去的决定...
[Renan's Voice] When we finally made the decision to go down...

528
00:37:59,653 --> 00:38:01,280
就像是一阵安慰
it was a relief.

529
00:38:01,363 --> 00:38:04,450
同时也令人心碎
Uh, it was also heartbreaking.

530
00:38:10,623 --> 00:38:13,793
<i>♪♪ [Vocalizing Continues]</i>

531
00:38:13,876 --> 00:38:18,214
我们的双脚就像灌了铅 我们非常的虚弱
Our feet are... hammered and we're just emaciated.

532
00:38:18,297 --> 00:38:20,800
当我们从山上下来
[Renan] When we got down off the mountain...

533
00:38:20,883 --> 00:38:26,138
我们面临的情况是 冻伤和战壕足
our condition was this combination of frostbite and trench foot.

534
00:38:26,222 --> 00:38:27,807
战壕足就是当你...
Trench foot is what you get...

535
00:38:27,890 --> 00:38:32,061
当你的手和脚长时间处于
when your feet and your hands are in this wet, damp condition...

536
00:38:32,144 --> 00:38:34,480
潮湿的条件下开始腐烂的现象
for a long period of time, and they start to rot.

537
00:38:34,563 --> 00:38:39,485
我为此坐上了轮椅 好几周无法行走
I came back in a wheelchair. I couldn't really walk for a few weeks.

538
00:38:39,568 --> 00:38:43,989
我们都尽力了，我们挑战了极限
All of us gave it our best. We pushed our limits.

539
00:38:44,073 --> 00:38:46,283
还有些事没有做完
Uh, there was something left undone.

540
00:38:48,244 --> 00:38:51,914
但是...我着迷了
But... I was possessed.

541
00:38:51,997 --> 00:38:53,749
我甚至没有失望，我想着...
I wasn't even down, and I was like...

542
00:38:53,833 --> 00:38:57,169
好的，我是在季风前还是季风后去？
Okay, do I come back in pre-monsoon, post-monsoon?

543
00:38:57,253 --> 00:39:00,756
我们什么时候去 我们这一次如何做到更好？
When are we gonna do it, and what do we gotta do better this time?

544
00:39:04,760 --> 00:39:07,096
[Wind Whooshing]

545
00:39:11,976 --> 00:39:17,106
2008年之后，雷南和我 一起进行了很多次攀登
[Jimmy] After 2008, Renan and I ended up on a bunch of different shoots together.

546
00:39:17,189 --> 00:39:20,442
我们走遍了世界 我们去了非洲的乍得
We went all over the world. We were in Chad, Africa.

547
00:39:20,526 --> 00:39:22,653
去了婆罗洲
We were in Borneo.

548
00:39:22,736 --> 00:39:25,614
我们一起做了大量的工作
We worked on a ton of jobs together.

549
00:39:38,085 --> 00:39:42,840
我们知道有不少队伍在 我们之后尝试登上鱼翅峰
We knew that there were a number of teams who attempted the Shark's Fin after us.

550
00:39:42,923 --> 00:39:47,636
然后一个名叫希尔沃·卡罗 的斯洛维尼亚的登山者
And then this great Slovenian climber named Silvo Karo...

551
00:39:47,720 --> 00:39:51,974
联系康拉德询问有关路线的消息
called Conrad to ask for beta- ask for information on the route.

552
00:39:52,057 --> 00:39:56,145
所以我们给了他全部的支持 我们不喜欢保密
And so we gave him our total support. We weren't being possessive of the climb.

553
00:39:56,228 --> 00:39:59,565
我们不会，那不是... 那座山不是我们的
We weren't- it wasn't- We don't own that mountain.

554
00:39:59,648 --> 00:40:04,570
我们就这样 ”给你，这就是我们的收获“
We were like, "Here it is. Here's what we learned."

555
00:40:04,653 --> 00:40:08,616
完成鱼翅峰的故事
And, "Finish the story of the Shark's Fin."

556
00:40:08,699 --> 00:40:12,620
因为我们没必要回去了 这事情已经结束了
Because then we don't have to go back. It's done.

557
00:40:12,703 --> 00:40:15,748
我们当时认为希尔沃能行
[Jimmy] And we kind of assumed Silvo would get it.

558
00:40:15,831 --> 00:40:18,918
然后我接到康拉德的电话
And then I got a call from Conrad, you know.

559
00:40:19,001 --> 00:40:22,129
他只说了”他没成功“
And all he said was, "He didn't get it."

560
00:40:22,212 --> 00:40:26,425
在那个时候，我们想的是 ”好的，转换一下，我们回去“
At that point we're like, "Okay." Gears turning. "We're going back."

561
00:40:26,508 --> 00:40:30,679
人们都说最好的登山者 就是有着最坏回忆的人
[Chuckles] They say the best Alpinists are the ones with the worst memory.

562
00:40:30,763 --> 00:40:33,140
[Birds Tweeting]

563
00:40:38,562 --> 00:40:41,565
在我们计划前往梅鲁峰
[Jimmy] About six months before we were supposed to head to Meru...

564
00:40:41,649 --> 00:40:42,775
进行第二次尝试的前六个月
on our second attempt...

565
00:40:42,858 --> 00:40:47,321
雷南和我当时在杰克森洞 拍摄一个商业项目
Renan and I were out shooting a commercial project in Jackson Hole.

566
00:40:47,404 --> 00:40:50,699
这里不是很陡峭 顶点也许在这里
It's not too steep up here. The summit's probably right here.

567
00:40:50,783 --> 00:40:54,745
我接到了杰瑞米·琼斯 和贾维尔·德勒鲁打来的电话
[Jimmy's Voice] I had gotten a call from Jeremy Jones and Xavier de Le Rue...

568
00:40:54,828 --> 00:40:57,665
他们是世界上最杰出的滑雪手
two of the best big-mountain snowboarders in the world.

569
00:40:57,748 --> 00:40:59,375
这里，这是陡峭的部分吗？
In here, is this the steepest part?

570
00:40:59,458 --> 00:41:02,211
那是一个大事情 我要求雷南进行拍摄
[Jimmy's Voice] It was a big job, and I asked Renan to film on it...

571
00:41:02,294 --> 00:41:04,004
尽管他不是很擅长滑雪
even though he wasn't a great skier.

572
00:41:04,088 --> 00:41:07,800
这条线，在这下面是数不清的悬崖
This line, below this is, like, thousands of cliffs.

573
00:41:19,645 --> 00:41:23,399
我很兴奋，这是我和杰瑞米以及贾维的第一次滑雪
I'm stoked. Those are the first turns I've ever made with Jeremy and Xav.

574
00:41:24,400 --> 00:41:26,735
前景不错
- Bodes well. - [Chuckles]

575
00:41:28,070 --> 00:41:29,738
太棒了
That was awesome.

576
00:41:36,078 --> 00:41:39,790
我们一起下山 然后我看到雷南滑到边缘
[Jimmy] We were headed down together when I saw Renan catch an edge.

577
00:41:39,873 --> 00:41:43,377
突然失去了控制 然后消失在一段悬崖处
And he spun out of control and disappeared over a cliff.

578
00:41:45,212 --> 00:41:46,964
噢，噢
Oh. Oh!

579
00:41:52,469 --> 00:41:56,849
我下去找到他 当时他脑袋周围全是血
I got down to him, and there was blood all around his head.

580
00:41:56,932 --> 00:41:59,852
我知道了
- [Chattering] - [Man] I got it.

581
00:41:59,935 --> 00:42:04,189
他的颅骨碎了 能够在他脑袋里看到
He'd smashed his skull, and you could see into his head.

582
00:42:04,273 --> 00:42:07,568
我当时以为他会死在我怀里
I thought he was gonna die... in my arms.

583
00:42:07,651 --> 00:42:10,696
我觉得我有责任
- [Monitors Beeping] - I felt responsible.

584
00:42:10,779 --> 00:42:14,366
他的颅骨开放性骨折
[Man] He has an open, depressed skull fracture with pneumocephali...

585
00:42:14,450 --> 00:42:16,285
头骨里面有积水
which is air inside the skull.

586
00:42:16,368 --> 00:42:21,457
他的C2区域泪珠状断裂 侧块骨折
And... he has a C2 teardrop fracture and lateral mass fracture...

587
00:42:21,540 --> 00:42:25,044
C6区域神经突断裂
as well as a C6 spinous process fracture.

588
00:42:32,342 --> 00:42:34,720
[Monitor Beeping]

589
00:42:36,388 --> 00:42:38,307
我们出去了，好吗？
We came out, okay?

590
00:42:40,809 --> 00:42:44,813
[Murmuring]

591
00:42:51,070 --> 00:42:53,989
他要被固定很长一段时间 他们要带他去手术
He's gonna be immobilized for a long time. They're gonna take him to surgery.

592
00:42:54,073 --> 00:42:56,408
手术有什么重大风险吗？
Any sort of, like, significant risks during the surgery?

593
00:42:56,492 --> 00:42:57,493
当然有
Absolutely.

594
00:43:00,412 --> 00:43:05,167
于是他们说我们可以见他 他们把他推出来，他看起来
So they tell us we can see him and they roll him out, and he just looked-

595
00:43:06,335 --> 00:43:08,670
我是说，我认出了他，但是
I- I mean, I recognized him, but-

596
00:43:10,005 --> 00:43:12,966
我是说，他看起来如此的沮丧
I mean, he looked so beat down.

597
00:43:18,806 --> 00:43:24,269
当我找到你的时候 你正面朝下倒在雪里
So when I found you, you were... face down... in a pile.

598
00:43:24,353 --> 00:43:28,190
有一个这么大的三角形伤口
You essentially had, like, a triangle about that big-

599
00:43:29,900 --> 00:43:33,529
我透过那能看到你的头骨
about that big where I could see your skull.

600
00:43:35,948 --> 00:43:40,452
雷南当时头部着地 头盖骨严重断裂
[Jimmy's Voice] Renan had landed on his head and severely fractured his skull.

601
00:43:40,536 --> 00:43:44,123
脖子处两根椎骨断裂
He broke two vertebrae in his neck.

602
00:43:44,206 --> 00:43:47,292
一条椎动脉断裂
He severed one of his vertebral arteries.

603
00:43:47,376 --> 00:43:52,297
导致一半的脑供血受阻
And basically cut off half the blood flow to his brain.

604
00:43:52,381 --> 00:43:55,884
我问过，我说 ”这情况怎么样？“
I asked, I said, "Well, what are we talkin' about here?"

605
00:43:55,968 --> 00:44:01,890
90%如此情况的人 将无法再次行走
They were like, "90% of people with any one of these injuries will never walk again."

606
00:44:01,974 --> 00:44:04,768
他们说”他头部的伤势，你知道的
His head injury- They were saying, you know-

607
00:44:04,852 --> 00:44:09,398
再偏离一毫米就成植物人了”
it was within a millimeter of him being a vegetable.

608
00:44:11,400 --> 00:44:14,153
我们在这 - 我接到吉米的电话
- Here we are- - [Conrad's Voice] I got a call from Jimmy.

609
00:44:14,236 --> 00:44:16,738
他说发生了严重的意外
He said, "There's been a really severe accident."

610
00:44:16,822 --> 00:44:18,323
然后我马上开车过去了
And I drove down right away.

611
00:44:18,407 --> 00:44:20,200
我们当时说了一些
We had this moment where it was...

612
00:44:20,284 --> 00:44:22,077
“你会好起来的，事情会好的” 之类的那些话
You're gonna be fine. Things are good.

613
00:44:22,161 --> 00:44:24,496
我们会一起走
And we got up and we got the walker...

614
00:44:24,580 --> 00:44:28,333
从东到西完成计划
and we walked from east to west on the linoleum floor.

615
00:44:28,417 --> 00:44:30,836
[Chuckles]

616
00:44:30,919 --> 00:44:33,547
恢复模式 - 是的
Recovery mode. - Yeah.

617
00:44:36,049 --> 00:44:40,846
我们快点去一些地方 这样就能完成事情
Let's go somewhere quick, so we can get our job done.

618
00:44:40,929 --> 00:44:41,930
是的
Yep.

619
00:44:42,014 --> 00:44:45,350
九月份 - 没错
September. - Exactly.

620
00:44:45,434 --> 00:44:48,478
当时他有回梅鲁峰的想法
[Conrad's Voice] At the time, he was like, "I want to go to Meru."

621
00:44:48,562 --> 00:44:53,025
但是我不想说 “伙计，你这情况不允许”
But I didn't want to be like, "Dude, you're hooped. I mean, come on."

622
00:44:53,108 --> 00:44:57,196
你不忍心告诉一些人 有些事是不可能的
You don't have the heart to tell someone something's impossible.

623
00:44:57,279 --> 00:45:00,032
在那个时候你不忍心 阻止他们，然互说
You're not gonna stuff 'em right at that moment and say...

624
00:45:00,115 --> 00:45:02,367
“伙计，你说什么呢？ 你无法再去梅鲁峰了
Dude, what are you talkin' about? You're never goin' back to Meru.

625
00:45:02,451 --> 00:45:05,370
你无法再登山了“ 你说不出这样的话
You're never goin' climbing. You just don't say those kind of things.

626
00:45:05,454 --> 00:45:08,624
[Monitor Beeping]

627
00:45:10,209 --> 00:45:14,421
我们就要... 我们很快就能去了
We'll see how it- see how it does at altitude at some point.

628
00:45:16,089 --> 00:45:17,549
[Raspberry]

629
00:45:17,633 --> 00:45:19,635
[Wind Whooshing]

630
00:45:23,055 --> 00:45:25,224
在我知道雷南稳定后...
[Jimmy] Once I knew Renan was stable...

631
00:45:25,307 --> 00:45:28,727
我就得去杰克森完成工作
I headed back to Jackson to try and finish the job.

632
00:45:30,812 --> 00:45:32,981
直到吉米回来前...
[Jeremy] As far as Jimmy coming back...

633
00:45:33,065 --> 00:45:37,069
如果吉米说”我不做了
no one would have said anything if Jimmy said, "I'm not going to do it."

634
00:45:35,529 --> 00:45:39,063
（职业滑雪手：杰瑞米·琼斯）

635
00:45:37,152 --> 00:45:38,612
我放弃了“没有人会有意见
Um, I'm done.

636
00:45:38,695 --> 00:45:42,157
这些都是个人决定
Those are real personal decisions.

637
00:45:42,241 --> 00:45:46,745
感觉就像是”好的，你得 摆好心态回去“
It was kind of a, "All right, you have to get back on the horse" mentality.

638
00:45:55,087 --> 00:45:58,924
五四三二一
Five, four, three, two, one.

639
00:45:59,007 --> 00:46:02,010
贾维尔·德勒鲁
- Xavier de Le Rue. - [Beeps]

640
00:46:12,771 --> 00:46:14,273
下降
Dropping!

641
00:46:18,235 --> 00:46:20,112
整个的气氛很轻松
[Jeremy] The general mood was pretty light.

642
00:46:20,195 --> 00:46:24,157
我们的目的达到了，很好
Our objective for the day had been reached. Good vibes.

643
00:46:24,241 --> 00:46:26,952
我们在开始之前的安排是...
Our conversation before dropping in was...

644
00:46:27,035 --> 00:46:29,788
一次来一段，确保每个人的安全
go one at a time, make sure everyone's in a safe spot.

645
00:46:29,871 --> 00:46:31,623
下降
Dropping!

646
00:46:33,292 --> 00:46:36,503
所以，杰瑞米做了几个转弯
[Jimmy] So, Jeremy made a couple turns.

647
00:46:36,586 --> 00:46:40,465
滑到了安全区域的边缘
Cut up on the side of this safe zone.

648
00:46:40,549 --> 00:46:44,219
叫我进去，然后我跟着他的 线路转弯了
Called me in, and I make a turn right next to his turn.

649
00:46:44,303 --> 00:46:46,471
然后，然后我感觉到了
And then- And then I feel it-

650
00:46:46,555 --> 00:46:48,849
整个山坡都在移动
The whole slope shift.

651
00:46:48,932 --> 00:46:51,935
[Rumbling]

652
00:46:52,019 --> 00:46:54,688
我大叫着”雪崩了“
[Jeremy] I yell, "Avalanche."

653
00:46:54,771 --> 00:46:59,151
只是大叫着”快走，快走“
Just screaming, "Get out, get out, get out."

654
00:46:59,234 --> 00:47:01,528
一开始，看起来像是慢镜头
[Jimmy] For a moment, it looks like slow motion.

655
00:47:01,611 --> 00:47:04,573
接下来，一切看起来都很迅速
And the next moment, everything went to fast-forward.

656
00:47:04,656 --> 00:47:07,034
然后我被卷进去
And it just- I got swept.

657
00:47:07,117 --> 00:47:09,286
被抛到空中
I'm airborne.

658
00:47:10,412 --> 00:47:12,080
感觉毫无重量
Totally weightless.

659
00:47:14,541 --> 00:47:17,502
然后我就看不见他了 吉米从我眼前消失了
And I lost sight of him. That was the last I saw of Jimmy.

660
00:47:17,586 --> 00:47:22,549
崩落的雪在不断的往下走
And the slide just kept going and going and going and going.

661
00:47:22,632 --> 00:47:25,177
[Rumbling]

662
00:47:25,260 --> 00:47:29,890
我被压倒在汽车大小的雪海里
[Jimmy] I just got crushed under an ocean of car-sized blocks.

663
00:47:29,973 --> 00:47:33,018
速度大约有七八十英里
Probably going 70, 80 miles an hour...

664
00:47:33,101 --> 00:47:35,354
垂直下降了两千英尺
down 2,000 vertical feet.

665
00:47:36,772 --> 00:47:39,191
在我心中，我听到这个声音
And in my mind, I heard this voice...

666
00:47:39,274 --> 00:47:41,026
有着这样的一段对话
having this conversation that was like...

667
00:47:41,109 --> 00:47:44,196
我一直想知道我是怎么似的
Wow, I- I always wondered how I was gonna die...

668
00:47:44,279 --> 00:47:45,781
现在我知道了
and now- now I know.

669
00:47:52,204 --> 00:47:55,040
我本以为会被撕成碎片
I was just expecting to get torn to pieces.

670
00:47:55,123 --> 00:47:57,626
但是一阵子之后 速度开始慢了下来
But after a while, it started to slow down.

671
00:47:57,709 --> 00:48:02,923
然后一阵奇怪的暗流开始把我从雪里推起来
And this weird undercurrent started pushing me up through the snow.

672
00:48:03,006 --> 00:48:05,967
在最后的关头
And at the last moment...

673
00:48:06,051 --> 00:48:08,637
我从它们顶部弹出来
I popped out of the toe of this thing...

674
00:48:09,888 --> 00:48:12,766
积雪淹没了我的胸口
buried up to my chest.

675
00:48:12,849 --> 00:48:16,895
当时我的想法是 ”我的天，我没事“
I was in that moment being like, "Oh, my God. I'm in one piece."

676
00:48:16,978 --> 00:48:21,483
我咳出胸口的一大块雪 然后大口呼吸
Like, I coughed up this huge chunk of snow, and I took this huge breath...

677
00:48:21,566 --> 00:48:23,318
然后感觉
and I was like- [Gasping]

678
00:48:23,402 --> 00:48:26,154
我看着我的手臂 当时的感觉是
And I looked at my arms, and I was like, I mean...

679
00:48:26,238 --> 00:48:28,824
我当时甚至不敢相信 我的手还在身上
I couldn't even believe they were still connected to my body.

680
00:48:28,907 --> 00:48:30,659
然后...
And then, um-

681
00:48:32,911 --> 00:48:34,413
是的，发生的太多了
Yeah, it was a lot.

682
00:48:36,331 --> 00:48:40,252
下降是很困难的 感觉花了一辈子
[Jeremy] It was really difficult to descend and felt like forever.

683
00:48:40,335 --> 00:48:42,087
但是我来到拐角处
But I come around the corner...

684
00:48:42,170 --> 00:48:44,631
在我看到过的最惨烈的
and way out at the very bottom...

685
00:48:44,714 --> 00:48:48,176
一副雪崩场景中
of the biggest debris fields I've ever seen...

686
00:48:48,260 --> 00:48:51,179
看到吉米坐在那里
is Jimmy sitting upright.

687
00:48:51,263 --> 00:48:52,764
[Exhales Sharply]

688
00:48:52,848 --> 00:48:56,393
我没见过如此的场景
[Jimmy] I haven't seen a fuckin' slide- [Chuckles]

689
00:49:01,148 --> 00:49:05,777
这场雪崩胜过了我见过的所有雪崩
[Jeremy's Voice] This avalanche has trumped all avalanches I've ever seen.

690
00:49:05,861 --> 00:49:09,197
我当时只想到吉米死了
I couldn't help but think, "Jimmy's dead."

691
00:49:10,365 --> 00:49:13,910
我不敢相信他活了下来
I just can't believe that he survived it.

692
00:49:13,994 --> 00:49:15,871
天啊
Oh, boy!

693
00:49:15,954 --> 00:49:17,664
哇
- [Whines] - Whoo!

694
00:49:17,747 --> 00:49:19,499
我们看到了一个奇迹
[Jeremy] We just saw a miracle.

695
00:49:19,583 --> 00:49:21,543
是的，他们看到了一个奇迹
[Xavier] Yeah, they saw a miracle.

696
00:49:21,626 --> 00:49:24,754
或者说我看到了超人现象,我不知道怎么回事
Or I saw superhuman effort. I saw somethin'. I don't know.

697
00:49:31,303 --> 00:49:35,015
大部分人都无法从这样的雪崩中存活
[Jimmy] Most people don't survive those kinds of avalanches.

698
00:49:35,098 --> 00:49:37,642
比这更小的雪崩也让人丧命
People die in a lot lesser avalanches.

699
00:49:37,023 --> 00:49:40,341
（滑雪拍摄遭遇雪崩）

700
00:49:37,726 --> 00:49:39,895
所以我真的很幸运
So I got really lucky.

701
00:49:39,978 --> 00:49:42,481
之后我消失了一阵子
Took off for a while. I disappeared off the map...

702
00:49:42,564 --> 00:49:46,067
我需要一些时间思考
and I needed some time to really contemplate.

703
00:49:48,445 --> 00:49:51,490
在雷南遭遇几乎丧命的意外后
[Grace] After Renan's near-death accident...

704
00:49:51,573 --> 00:49:53,575
吉米受到了很大的打击
Jimmy was extremely shaken.

705
00:49:53,658 --> 00:49:56,244
之后是四天后的雪崩
And then the avalanche four days later.

706
00:49:56,328 --> 00:49:59,915
这让他重新审视他的生命
It really contributed to him reexamining his life.

707
00:49:59,998 --> 00:50:03,084
他有了第二次机会 你要拿第二次机会做什么？
He'd been given a second chance, and so what do you do with a second chance?

708
00:50:10,342 --> 00:50:13,803
吉米从几乎不可能的情况下活了下来
[Krakauer] So, Jimmy survived this thing that people don't survive...

709
00:50:13,887 --> 00:50:17,224
他陷入了困境
and he was really messed up.

710
00:50:17,307 --> 00:50:19,267
他的心理上陷入了混乱
He was in a bad way psychologically.

711
00:50:19,351 --> 00:50:23,396
这让你怀疑你对一切的判断
And this makes you doubt your judgment about everything.

712
00:50:23,480 --> 00:50:25,482
他从各种事情中抽出身
He bailed from various commitments.

713
00:50:25,565 --> 00:50:28,360
什么地方也不去 当然不会去梅鲁峰
He's not goin' anywhere. He's certainly not goin' to Meru.

714
00:50:28,443 --> 00:50:32,072
雷南无法去梅鲁峰 他也许一辈子都会成为跛子
Renan can't go to Meru. He's crippled, maybe for life. Seriously.

715
00:50:32,155 --> 00:50:34,783
没人知道雷南是否 能恢复过来
You know, no one knew if Renan was gonna come out of this.

716
00:50:39,162 --> 00:50:40,664
[Exhales]

717
00:50:42,290 --> 00:50:45,210
当时雷南和我在一起 他戴着颈托...
[Conrad] Renan and I got together. He had his neck brace on...

718
00:50:45,293 --> 00:50:47,712
坐在懒人椅上
and he was in his La-Z-Boy chair.

719
00:50:47,796 --> 00:50:49,548
当时是这样的状态
And he was kind of like this.

720
00:50:51,758 --> 00:50:54,386
[Typing]

721
00:50:56,972 --> 00:50:59,224
我说了些鼓励的话 比如”我们能行的“
I'm offering encouragement. I'm like, "Yes, we can do this.

722
00:50:59,307 --> 00:51:01,101
”这样很好“
This is- This is good."

723
00:51:01,184 --> 00:51:05,105
但是在我心里所想的其实是
Yet, in the back of my mind, I knew that I might have to be-

724
00:51:05,188 --> 00:51:09,985
”雷南，你的身体情况 不适合去梅鲁峰了“
it might be, "Renan, you're just physically are not prepared to go back to Meru."

725
00:51:13,738 --> 00:51:18,660
我觉得康拉德是整个 旅程的驱动力
[Jenni] I think Conrad was the driving force for the entire trip.

726
00:51:18,743 --> 00:51:23,915
一开始我不同意他去 但是这是对朋友的忠诚
At first I didn't want him to go back, but it was just that loyalty to Mugs...

727
00:51:23,999 --> 00:51:27,460
想要完成那个一起做的梦
and wanting to fulfill that shared dream.

728
00:51:30,797 --> 00:51:36,136
作为一名有过登山经历的人 我对此很理解
Having climbed mountains myself, I understood that.

729
00:51:36,219 --> 00:51:40,473
尤其是当没有被人 登上那座山峰时
Especially if it's a first ascent. No one's been there before you.

730
00:51:43,476 --> 00:51:48,773
在一些休整和思考过后
[Jimmy] After some time off and- and some serious contemplation...

731
00:51:48,857 --> 00:51:54,446
不滑雪，不登山以及不靠近高山的想法
the idea of not skiing and not climbing and not being in the mountains...

732
00:51:54,529 --> 00:51:59,618
简直是无法想象的
um, was- was too much to- to imagine.

733
00:52:01,453 --> 00:52:03,955
我还没打算放弃它们
I just wasn't ready to give it all up.

734
00:52:05,624 --> 00:52:06,958
[Panting]

735
00:52:08,710 --> 00:52:12,380
离我们计划返回梅鲁峰 只剩下五个月了
[Renan] There was only five months until we were supposed to leave for Meru.

736
00:52:12,464 --> 00:52:15,383
那是一个很严肃的时间点
It was a pretty serious point in time where...

737
00:52:15,467 --> 00:52:17,177
我不管我是否受伤了
I didn't care that I was injured.

738
00:52:17,260 --> 00:52:20,805
我只担心我无法再加入团队
I just cared that I wasn't going to be able to join the team again.

739
00:52:20,889 --> 00:52:22,849
你的手能像这样吗？
Can I have you bring your arms up like so?

740
00:52:22,932 --> 00:52:25,685
我知道对于我的朋友和家人来说 这是很困难的
[Renan Continuing] And I'm sure, to my friends and family, that was really hard...

741
00:52:25,769 --> 00:52:28,563
因为他们只想我好好的
because they just wanted to see me okay.

742
00:52:28,647 --> 00:52:31,858
让他们经历那些让我很愧疚
I just feel bad to put them through that.

743
00:52:35,278 --> 00:52:37,518
其中一处骨折是这里
[Doctor] One of the fractures is this thing back here...

744
00:52:37,572 --> 00:52:41,534
这地方是无法真正愈合的
which is so far displaced that that's not gonna really heal.

745
00:52:41,618 --> 00:52:43,286
这里是第二处断裂带
This is the second fracture.

746
00:52:43,370 --> 00:52:46,915
其中一个最大的问题是椎动脉
[Renan] One of the biggest question marks was the vertebral artery.

747
00:52:46,998 --> 00:52:49,584
我失去了一半的脑供血
I'd lost half the blood supply to my brain...

748
00:52:49,668 --> 00:52:53,088
攀登高山要面对的一个风险
and climbing at altitude, there's a high risk of...

749
00:52:53,171 --> 00:52:56,299
就是血液供给的问题
some sort of blood clot getting through that artery...

750
00:52:56,383 --> 00:52:58,843
这会让我有中风的危险
and giving me a stroke during the climb.

751
00:52:58,927 --> 00:53:01,763
但是对于我来说 这冒险是值得的
But for me, it was worth the risk.

752
00:53:01,846 --> 00:53:03,848
是我必须要做的事情
It was something that I had to do.

753
00:53:03,932 --> 00:53:06,893
值得为此而死
It was worth possibly dying for.

754
00:53:09,562 --> 00:53:11,773
我是说，在我心中，我的想法是
I mean, in my mind, I thought it was-

755
00:53:11,856 --> 00:53:14,275
我认为他想回去的 想法是疯狂的
I thought it was crazy that he wanted to go back.

756
00:53:14,359 --> 00:53:19,197
但是我意识到对于他来说 梅鲁峰是必须的
But I realize that Meru for him was something to hold onto.

757
00:53:19,280 --> 00:53:21,783
对于他来说这是个梦想
For him, it was like, "This is my dream."

758
00:53:21,866 --> 00:53:24,786
回去登上梅鲁峰
To come back and climb Meru...

759
00:53:24,869 --> 00:53:30,208
向自己证明他有 回归的能力
and prove to himself that he had the capacity to make a comeback.

760
00:53:30,291 --> 00:53:32,377
我对此很理解
And I- I understood it as well...

761
00:53:32,460 --> 00:53:37,966
因为，我也需要一样的事情
because, in a way, I needed the same thing, you know.

762
00:53:42,137 --> 00:53:46,474
[Grunting]

763
00:53:46,558 --> 00:53:49,894
脚踏车
- The bike. - [Exhales Sharply]

764
00:53:55,859 --> 00:53:59,904
雷南为了他的恢复 付出了很多心血
[Jimmy] Renan had put his heart and mind into recovering.

765
00:53:59,988 --> 00:54:04,242
他取得的进步是...
And the way that he had progressed was...

766
00:54:04,325 --> 00:54:07,454
几乎是毫无人性的
almost inhuman.

767
00:54:07,537 --> 00:54:10,331
[Panting]

768
00:54:14,502 --> 00:54:17,005
康拉德和我要回梅鲁峰
Conrad and I were gonna go back to Meru.

769
00:54:17,088 --> 00:54:20,175
但是我们还是得对 雷南的事情拿个决定
But we still had to make a decision about Renan.

770
00:54:20,258 --> 00:54:24,345
而雷南的去意已决
And Renan was... pretty adamant about going.

771
00:54:25,597 --> 00:54:29,642
于是我们三个聚到了一起
It was this moment when the three of us got together...

772
00:54:29,726 --> 00:54:31,978
然后吉米让雷南单独攀登
and Jimmy made the case for Renan to come along.

773
00:54:33,229 --> 00:54:35,982
我不同意雷南继续登山
[Jenni] I was against Renan going on the climb.

774
00:54:36,065 --> 00:54:38,401
我当时找到吉米说”你知道
I just confronted Jimmy and I said, "You know...

775
00:54:38,485 --> 00:54:41,446
我对这事不同意
I am not keen about this.

776
00:54:41,529 --> 00:54:43,865
你不能把雷南带到那里去
You know, you can't take Renan up there.

777
00:54:43,948 --> 00:54:46,451
如果他死了呢？“
I mean, what if he dies?"

778
00:54:49,037 --> 00:54:54,209
但是我不能叫吉米 直接把雷南踢出队伍
But I couldn't talk Jimmy into throwing Renan off the trip. [Laughs]

779
00:54:54,292 --> 00:54:57,879
因为他完全入迷了
It's like he was totally dug in.

780
00:54:57,962 --> 00:55:02,217
他只是说”如果雷南说他准备好了 那我就相信他“
He just said, flat out, "If Renan feels he's ready, I trust Renan."

781
00:55:04,135 --> 00:55:06,221
我很担心雷南
[Jenni] I was worried about Renan.

782
00:55:06,304 --> 00:55:07,388
[Groaning]

783
00:55:07,472 --> 00:55:10,475
但我也担心整支队伍的健康
[Jenni Continuing] But I was also worried about the well-being of the entire team...

784
00:55:10,558 --> 00:55:15,897
因为...要跟一个虚弱的队友 继续往上攀，登陆地面...
because... just to go up onto a face like that with a weak partner...

785
00:55:15,980 --> 00:55:19,150
如果在那又遇到了大风暴怎么办呢？
where, what if they got into another big, bad storm?

786
00:55:19,234 --> 00:55:21,554
如果他们中有人
- [Cracks] - [Jenni Continuing] Or what if one of 'em...

787
00:55:21,611 --> 00:55:23,696
头撞到岩石
got wacked in the head with a rock...

788
00:55:23,780 --> 00:55:25,824
他们就必须让他下去了，而且他们...
and they had to get him down off, and they-

789
00:55:25,907 --> 00:55:28,827
你的队友必须是健康，强壮的
You need to have your partners be sound and strong.

790
00:55:28,910 --> 00:55:32,997
你知道，当我们的朋友听说了这事 他们都觉得...
You know, when our friends heard about it, they were like-

791
00:55:33,081 --> 00:55:35,834
他们觉得我们全都疯了
They thought we were completely out of our minds.

792
00:55:35,917 --> 00:55:38,211
伙计，我不知道
Whew. Dude, I don't know.

793
00:55:38,294 --> 00:55:41,381
不！不！你知道，这样是不对的
No! No! You know, that's not right.

794
00:55:41,464 --> 00:55:43,341
这不像康拉德或是吉米
This isn't like Conrad, or Jimmy.

795
00:55:43,424 --> 00:55:46,678
你知道，这些人，他们不会胡来 不会做蠢事
You know, these guys, they don't fuck around, they don't do stupid stuff.

796
00:55:46,761 --> 00:55:48,888
如果他们做了，他们现在早就死了
If they did, they'd be dead by now.

797
00:55:55,270 --> 00:55:57,939
有两三次，我的重度焦虑发作了
Two or three times, I had these deep anxiety attacks.

798
00:55:58,022 --> 00:56:01,860
比如，当时是凌晨两点，忽然间
I mean, here it was, at 2:00 in the morning, and all of a sudden it was just like...

799
00:56:01,943 --> 00:56:07,407
一波焦虑感就朝我袭来 我在那上面，我说，该死
this wave of anxiety came over me, and I'm- I'm up there, like, going, "Shit."

800
00:56:07,490 --> 00:56:11,286
我还有2个孩子睡在楼上 我还有老婆
I've got two kids sleeping upstairs. My wife's there.

801
00:56:11,369 --> 00:56:15,373
另一个孩子马上就要上大学了 我应该对他们负责
Another boy's off at college. I'm responsible for them.

802
00:56:15,456 --> 00:56:17,959
我要回去，你要回去吗？
And I'm going, "You're going back?"

803
00:56:20,128 --> 00:56:21,963
你知道，攀登的奖金很多
You know, the rewards of climbing are huge.

804
00:56:22,046 --> 00:56:25,675
如果...如果你活了下来 如果你家人安然渡过了
If you- if you survive it, if your family comes out of it okay...

805
00:56:25,758 --> 00:56:29,637
如果所有人都安然渡过了 那这攀登，就太值得了！
if everyone comes out, then climbing- climbing is so worth it.

806
00:56:29,721 --> 00:56:33,182
问题是，我们都知道 通常你都不会安然无恙
The problem is, as we know, you don't always come out of it okay.

807
00:56:33,266 --> 00:56:37,145
会有人死，然后你就无法权衡了 这是个艰难的两难抉择
People die. And then you can't justify it. That is the great dilemma.

808
00:56:37,537 --> 00:56:48,999
（最后一个站着的人
成为康拉德的巨大代价）

809
00:56:39,647 --> 00:56:41,733
康拉德比任何人都明白
Conrad knows this better than anyone.

810
00:56:41,816 --> 00:56:46,154
看看马格斯的下场 还有康拉德的下一个搭档，梅克斯
Look at what happened to Mugs, and Conrad's next partner, Alex.

811
00:56:46,237 --> 00:56:48,573
马格斯在92年去世时
[Conrad] After the death of Mugs in '92...

812
00:56:48,656 --> 00:56:51,701
亚历克斯·洛维成为了我的主要攀登搭档
Alex Lowe became my main climbing partner.

813
00:56:51,784 --> 00:56:55,121
亚历克斯是当时首屈一指的攀登者
Alex was the premier climber at that time.

814
00:56:56,247 --> 00:57:00,752
康拉德是亚历克斯最爱的搭档
Conrad was Alex's favorite partner...

815
00:57:00,835 --> 00:57:02,962
也是最好的朋友
and best friend.

816
00:57:03,046 --> 00:57:06,382
康拉德对他来说正好合适
Conrad was just right for him...

817
00:57:06,466 --> 00:57:09,260
因为他能跟上亚历克斯的步调
because he could match Alex's pace.

818
00:57:09,344 --> 00:57:12,472
而且世界上没几个人能做到这点
And there wasn't too many people who could do that.

819
00:57:12,555 --> 00:57:15,475
这里是涅尔瓦那山
This is Nirvana, what this is.

820
00:57:13,119 --> 00:57:17,432
（亚历克斯·洛维）

821
00:57:15,558 --> 00:57:19,979
我们一起来出来，欣赏山峦
So we're gonna hang out, just enjoy the mountains.

822
00:57:20,063 --> 00:57:21,606
你知道，马格斯是导师
[Krakauer] You know, Mugs was the mentor...

823
00:57:21,689 --> 00:57:24,943
但亚历克斯和康拉德差不多平级
but Alex was much more Conrad's equal.

824
00:57:25,026 --> 00:57:28,780
你知道，他们是有史以来 最出色的两个攀登者
These are, you know, two of the most brilliant climbers ever.

825
00:57:25,456 --> 00:57:29,759
（亚历克斯·洛维，世界顶尖攀登者
站在南极洲埃尔斯沃斯山顶）

826
00:57:28,863 --> 00:57:30,865
大家都为他们感到十分震惊
I mean, people were blown away by 'em.

827
00:57:30,949 --> 00:57:32,951
而且他们相互提高
And they fed off each other!

828
00:57:31,263 --> 00:57:34,566
（极限高手杯大赛）

829
00:57:34,202 --> 00:57:36,663
他们是完美配合，完美搭档
They were this perfect match, the perfect partnership.

830
00:57:36,746 --> 00:57:40,541
我在97年跟亚历克斯和康拉德 一起去了南极洲
I went to Antarctica with both Alex and Conrad in '97...

831
00:57:40,625 --> 00:57:43,544
那是我经历过的最棒的一场旅程 他们都表现的很好
in one of the best trips I've ever done, and they were in rare form.

832
00:57:43,628 --> 00:57:45,338
光看着他们就很棒
Just brilliant to behold.

833
00:57:45,421 --> 00:57:48,466
于是他有了这个新搭档 他们将颠覆这个世界
So he had this new partner, and they were gonna tear up the world.

834
00:57:52,720 --> 00:57:56,140
亚历克斯在平衡家庭方面十分出色
[Conrad] Alex did a remarkable job of balancing family.

835
00:57:56,224 --> 00:57:58,810
而我们都跟流浪汉一样
We were all sort of vagabonds.

836
00:57:58,893 --> 00:58:02,730
然而亚历克斯，他很正统 他结婚了，有几个孩子
And here's Alex. He's, like, legit. He's married, and he's got kids.

837
00:58:07,402 --> 00:58:10,989
我嫁给亚历克斯·洛维18年了
I was married to Alex Lowe for 18 years.

838
00:58:11,072 --> 00:58:16,035
然而，在1999年秋天
And, um, in the autumn of 1999...

839
00:58:16,119 --> 00:58:19,497
他跟康拉德去探险了
uh, he was on an expedition with Conrad.

840
00:58:19,580 --> 00:58:22,709
当时是去的西藏，希夏邦马峰
It was to Shishapangma, in Tibet.

841
00:58:22,792 --> 00:58:26,295
他们当时去看了一下那山
And, uh, they went up to take a look at the mountain.

842
00:58:28,381 --> 00:58:30,675
那天本该是休息的
[Conrad] It was supposed to be a rest day.

843
00:58:30,758 --> 00:58:35,346
我，大卫·布里吉斯，亚历克斯上了山 准备攀登
David Bridges, Alex and I went up, getting ready to do the climb...

844
00:58:35,430 --> 00:58:41,102
然后大概在早上7点半，8点钟的样子
and we got to this point- it was probably 7:30, 8:00 in the morning.

845
00:58:41,185 --> 00:58:45,148
忽然间，发生一声巨响 我们抬头一看，见鬼
All of a sudden, there was, like, this crack, and we looked up and it was, "Oh, shit."

846
00:58:45,231 --> 00:58:47,025
雪崩了
There was a- a release.

847
00:58:47,108 --> 00:58:49,110
[Rumbling]

848
00:58:49,193 --> 00:58:53,072
在亚历克斯离开之前，我就有种不好的预感
[Jenni] Before Alex left, I had this weird premonition.

849
00:58:53,156 --> 00:58:55,450
我不想让他攀岩
I didn't want him to go on the climb.

850
00:58:55,533 --> 00:58:57,452
我说，你知道...
I said, you know...

851
00:58:57,535 --> 00:59:00,788
我很担心，你会死于雪崩
I'm worried that you're gonna die in an avalanche.

852
00:59:00,872 --> 00:59:05,251
而亚历克斯说，我从来都会回家啊
And Alex said, "I always come home."

853
00:59:05,334 --> 00:59:07,462
[Rumbling]

854
00:59:07,545 --> 00:59:12,216
亚历克斯和大卫直接往山下跑 我往斜的方向穿越
[Conrad] Alex and David ran straight downhill. I traversed at an angle.

855
00:59:12,300 --> 00:59:15,803
我当时觉得，在被雪崩掩埋之前 我就会倒下
I was like, "I'm gonna lay down before the avalanche hits."

856
00:59:15,887 --> 00:59:21,017
我往那边看，亚历克斯和大卫 还在上面，他们还在跑
And as I looked over, David and Alex were still upright, and they were still running.

857
00:59:21,100 --> 00:59:24,395
我跌倒又爬起，磨了一身伤，不停翻滚
I was picked up and thrown, battered, tumbled.

858
00:59:24,479 --> 00:59:27,565
一半的身子都被掩埋了
And just kind of half-buried.

859
00:59:27,648 --> 00:59:31,277
然后...一片沉寂
And then... it was silent.

860
00:59:34,906 --> 00:59:36,908
我记得我站起身，四处走动
I remember standing up and walking around...

861
00:59:36,991 --> 00:59:41,746
走去我刚才看见了他们的地方 但那儿什么都没有
and going over to where I had seen them, and there was nothing there.

862
00:59:41,829 --> 00:59:47,251
没有滑雪板，手套什么的从雪里露出来
There was no ski stick or a glove sticking out of the snow or anything like that.

863
00:59:47,335 --> 00:59:49,837
我们的其他队员也上来帮助搜寻了
Our other teammates came up to help with the search...

864
00:59:49,921 --> 00:59:54,675
我们在一天中最美好的时间里搜寻他们
and we searched there for the better part of the day.

865
00:59:54,759 --> 00:59:58,096
我回到了营地 我需要一些药物治疗
I went back down to camp. I needed some medical attention.

866
01:00:01,057 --> 01:00:04,477
我接到了电话，起初我以为是亚历克斯
[Jenni] I got the phone call. I thought it was Alex at first.

867
01:00:04,560 --> 01:00:08,272
接着安德鲁的声音响起了 我瞬间就慌了
And Andrew's voice came on, and I instantly panicked.

868
01:00:08,356 --> 01:00:11,734
安德鲁说，珍妮，雪崩了
Andrew's like, "Jenni, there's been an avalanche."

869
01:00:11,818 --> 01:00:14,529
你知道，然后我的心狂跳不止
You know, and then my heart was racing.

870
01:00:15,780 --> 01:00:19,283
立马，我说，康拉德在吗？
Right away, I said, "Is Conrad there?"

871
01:00:19,367 --> 01:00:21,994
因为，你知道，我以为...
Because, you know, I thought that...

872
01:00:22,078 --> 01:00:25,581
康拉德可能会保护亚历克斯
somehow Conrad would've protected Alex.

873
01:00:25,665 --> 01:00:29,210
你知道，如果康拉德当时和他在一起 他就不会有事了
You know, that it couldn't happen to him if Conrad was there with him.

874
01:00:31,295 --> 01:00:34,340
我记得珍妮说，你还能做些什么吗？
I remember Jenni saying, "Is there anything else you can do?

875
01:00:34,423 --> 01:00:39,637
你能回去找他吗？而我们说 他，他已经走了
Can you go back and look for him?" And we're like, "No. It's just- He's gone."

876
01:00:39,720 --> 01:00:43,432
那是，那是...
And it was- it was-

877
01:00:43,516 --> 01:00:46,394
事已成定局了
There was, um- There was just this finality of it.

878
01:00:49,605 --> 01:00:53,818
在亚历克斯死后，康拉德变化很大
[Krakauer] After Alex died, Conrad went through this transformation.

879
01:00:53,901 --> 01:00:55,653
他...他看起来非常憔悴
He was just- He looked gaunt.

880
01:00:55,736 --> 01:01:01,075
他...他退隐到了某个深处 不肯走出来
He was- He had retreated somewhere deep inside and wasn't comin' out.

881
01:01:01,159 --> 01:01:04,412
他很担心，他在那个边缘 不会再回来了
I worried he was over the edge and wasn't coming back.

882
01:01:07,081 --> 01:01:09,375
我是说，已经失去了重心
[Conrad] It's just- I mean, the wheels were coming off.

883
01:01:09,458 --> 01:01:14,005
我不知道为什么我如此糟糕
And, um, I didn't know why I was so fucked up.

884
01:01:14,088 --> 01:01:18,217
我的一个朋友，吉尔·罗伯茨 他也遇到了类似的情况
Gil Roberts, a friend of mine, who was in a very similar situation.

885
01:01:18,301 --> 01:01:20,678
他的攀岩搭档死的时候，他也在场
He was there when his climbing partner died.

886
01:01:20,761 --> 01:01:24,348
不止一次，他拿起电话，对我说 嘿，伙计
And more than once, he picked up the phone, and he's like, "Hey, man.

887
01:01:24,432 --> 01:01:26,517
我想和你聊聊 我们应该聚一聚
I've gotta come talk to you. We've gotta get together."

888
01:01:26,601 --> 01:01:29,562
我不知道他为什么要找我
And I didn't know why Gil wanted to get ahold of me.

889
01:01:29,645 --> 01:01:32,440
感觉像...
And it was, like-

890
01:01:32,523 --> 01:01:36,819
我记得他是怎么说的，他说 是的，幸存者的罪恶感难以承受
I remember his line. He's like, "Yep. Survivor's guilt is a bear."

891
01:01:36,903 --> 01:01:39,363
要承受它，真的...
And having to do that. And it was, like-

892
01:01:39,447 --> 01:01:42,366
因为对我来说，这沉重的感觉
Because for me, it's, like, this heavy fucking thing...

893
01:01:42,450 --> 01:01:44,785
我就是无法摆脱
that wouldn't leave me alone.

894
01:01:44,869 --> 01:01:47,038
因为亚历克斯在时刻提醒着我
'Cause Alex had it going on.

895
01:01:47,121 --> 01:01:50,625
他很成功，他有3个孩子 一个美满的婚姻
Here he was, he was successful. He had three kids, a happy married life.

896
01:01:50,708 --> 01:01:54,629
一切都那么美好，而我，住在一辆车里
Everything was cool, and I lived in a van.

897
01:01:56,839 --> 01:02:01,886
关于亚历克斯的死，康拉德充满了懊悔
[Jenni] Conrad was filled with remorse over Alex's death...

898
01:02:01,969 --> 01:02:06,349
他从探险回来后
and he came back from the expedition...

899
01:02:06,432 --> 01:02:10,311
感觉他似乎才是那个该死的人
feeling like he was the one who should've died.

900
01:02:12,438 --> 01:02:14,440
我在努力寻找平衡的安宁
[Conrad] Trying to find balance and peace in that...

901
01:02:14,523 --> 01:02:16,150
但我就是无所适从
I just didn't know where to go.

902
01:02:16,234 --> 01:02:18,402
总是转一圈，又回到了珍妮这
But it always circled back to being with Jenni...

903
01:02:18,486 --> 01:02:21,447
我们会通电话
and the conversations that we had on the telephone...

904
01:02:21,530 --> 01:02:23,950
一起聚一聚
and being together with each other.

905
01:02:30,706 --> 01:02:32,416
我觉得他好像...
[Jenni] I think he felt like...

906
01:02:32,500 --> 01:02:36,337
想继续当好朋友，他需要帮助我们
to continue being a great friend, he needed to be there for us.

907
01:02:38,172 --> 01:02:42,176
这对我来说，这是和亚历克斯仅有的联系
It was like a little connection to Alex that was still there for me.

908
01:02:42,260 --> 01:02:46,764
你知道，在这之前... 我们谁也不知道将会发生什么
And then, you know, before we- either of us knew what was happening...

909
01:02:46,847 --> 01:02:48,766
我们相爱了
we were kind of falling in love.

910
01:02:48,849 --> 01:02:53,437
受这悲剧的胁迫，我和珍妮 我们相爱了
[Conrad] The duress of this tragedy- Jenni and I, we fell in love.

911
01:02:53,521 --> 01:02:59,026
然后我们最终结了婚 我领养了这几个孩子
And then eventually we married, and I have adopted the boys.

912
01:02:59,110 --> 01:03:01,946
[Typing]

913
01:03:04,824 --> 01:03:08,286
我不是一副由我选的样子，说，好吧
[Jenni] I wasn't like I chose and said, "Okay.

914
01:03:08,369 --> 01:03:11,539
我又要爱上一个攀登者了 但也就是发生了
I'm gonna fall in love with another climber." It just kind of happened.

915
01:03:13,541 --> 01:03:18,546
我依然觉得我嫁个牛仔 或许会更好一些
I still think I might have been better off with a cowboy.

916
01:03:20,381 --> 01:03:22,758
康拉德意识到
[Krakauer] Conrad has this side to him that realizes...

917
01:03:22,842 --> 01:03:25,678
我现在肩负着重任
I got some heavy responsibilities here.

918
01:03:25,761 --> 01:03:30,224
这是康拉德的秘诀 这是一种永恒的辩证法
it's the key to Conrad. There's this constant dialectic.

919
01:03:30,308 --> 01:03:34,478
他需要攀登山峰，但感觉像 我是不是太冒险了？
He needs the mountains to climb, but it's like, "Am I taking too many chances?

920
01:03:34,562 --> 01:03:37,732
我能控制风险吗？ 你当然无法控制风险
Can I control the risk?" Of course you can't control the risk.

921
01:03:37,815 --> 01:03:41,527
那我为什么还要这么做？ 因为我必须这么做，不然我会疯掉的
Well, why am I doing this? Because I have to do it or I go fucking crazy.

922
01:03:54,665 --> 01:03:58,336
最终，吉米和康拉德 将这个决定留给了我
[Renan] In the end, Jimmy and Conrad left the decision up to me.

923
01:03:58,419 --> 01:03:59,420
[Shutter Clicks]

924
01:03:59,503 --> 01:04:02,673
即使距离那场事故才过去了5个月
Even though it'd only been five months since the accident...

925
01:04:02,757 --> 01:04:06,010
我决定，我想尝试一下
I decided I wanted to give it a go.

926
01:04:06,093 --> 01:04:10,639
经过了2008年的考验之后 我们变得亲密无间
[Conrad] We had become so close after the 2008 ordeal...

927
01:04:10,723 --> 01:04:14,518
我们不会给他这个机会...
that to not give him the opportunity-

928
01:04:14,602 --> 01:04:17,438
这不是庆祝我们一起攀登的团队合作
it wasn't celebrating the teamwork that we came into the climb with.

929
01:04:17,521 --> 01:04:19,732
这就是我们的决定
- That was the decision. - [Exhales]

930
01:04:24,695 --> 01:04:28,532
那个，在这件事上 其实我并没有给出选择
[Amee] Well, I wasn't really given a choice... in the matter.

931
01:04:28,616 --> 01:04:30,993
实际上雷南决定去梅鲁峰
Renan actually decided to go to Meru...

932
01:04:31,077 --> 01:04:33,454
买了张机票，甚至都没告诉我
and bought a plane ticket and didn't even tell me.

933
01:04:34,455 --> 01:04:37,375
那就像一记耳光，但
It was kind of a slap in the face, but...

934
01:04:37,458 --> 01:04:41,253
更多的是担心他的安危
the bigger concern was his safety.

935
01:04:43,005 --> 01:04:45,216
他知道我们承受的压力
[Jimmy] He knew the heat that we were taking...

936
01:04:45,299 --> 01:04:49,637
他也知道，我们必须信任他，让他去
and he knew that we had to trust him to let him go.

937
01:04:49,720 --> 01:04:51,931
而我们就是这么做的，我们相信他
And that's what we did. We trusted him.

938
01:04:54,850 --> 01:04:57,353
也许这对大多数人来说，这样的冒险
[Krakauer] Maybe that's way over the heads of most people...

939
01:04:57,436 --> 01:05:01,774
这样的信任表达方式，太疯狂了
that kind of risk and that kind of expression of trust.

940
01:05:01,857 --> 01:05:07,071
但当康拉德还是毛头小子的时候 马格斯就在教他
But when Conrad was a young buck, and Mugs was teaching him...

941
01:05:07,154 --> 01:05:10,324
他们去过真正险峻的峰顶 非常危险，你负担不起掉下去的后果
they'd be at a really sketchy pitch- dangerous, you can't afford to fall.

942
01:05:10,408 --> 01:05:14,620
马格斯会说，好吧，康拉德 我们都知道，我可以领路
Mugs would be like, "Okay, Conrad, we all know that I can lead this.

943
01:05:14,703 --> 01:05:18,582
现在看看你是否能领路 你准备好了吗？
Now let's see if you can lead it. Are you ready?"

944
01:05:18,666 --> 01:05:21,752
几十年过去了，现在是康拉德
So many decades later, it was Conrad...

945
01:05:21,836 --> 01:05:26,757
对吉米和雷南说，好 你们已经经历了艰难的青春期
saying to Jimmy, Renan, "Okay, you guys had a rough spring.

946
01:05:26,841 --> 01:05:29,677
但你们可以做到的，我相信你们 我们即将行动
But you can do this. I trust you, and we're gonna do this."

947
01:05:42,273 --> 01:05:44,275
[Chattering]

948
01:05:43,305 --> 01:05:49,093
（印度，根戈德里，海拔9900英尺）

949
01:05:51,365 --> 01:05:55,453
[Chanting]

950
01:06:05,629 --> 01:06:09,467
整个徒步过程很紧张
[Jimmy] The entire hike in was intense.

951
01:06:12,052 --> 01:06:15,973
毫无疑问，我的心情很沉重
There's no doubt that I had a heavy heart going into it.

952
01:06:16,056 --> 01:06:20,144
感觉担负了太多的...
It felt just like so much...

953
01:06:20,227 --> 01:06:21,812
压力
pressure.

954
01:06:21,896 --> 01:06:26,358
你知道，感觉就像我们正要上绞刑架
You know, it felt a little bit like we were heading to the gallows. You know?

955
01:06:36,721 --> 01:06:40,092
（第一天，海拔15000英尺）

956
01:06:47,922 --> 01:06:50,049
15000英尺，康拉德！
[Renan] Fifteen feet, Conrad!

957
01:06:53,844 --> 01:06:57,723
[Equipment Clinking]

958
01:06:59,266 --> 01:07:01,936
[Shouting, indistinct]

959
01:07:23,582 --> 01:07:27,878
老家伙又扯断了
[Conrad] The old geek ripped.

960
01:07:27,962 --> 01:07:30,214
所以你才来的吗？ - 是啊
is That What sent ya? - Yeah.

961
01:07:32,049 --> 01:07:36,178
我刚听到“呯”的一声 接着就是齿轮哢哒的声音
I just heard the "ping" and then the fucking gear rattling.

962
01:07:36,262 --> 01:07:38,931
Cha-ching, cha-ching.

963
01:07:39,014 --> 01:07:41,725
还好，那是摔下来的最佳位置
Oh, it was a good- Of all the places to fall though-

964
01:07:41,809 --> 01:07:42,809
简直是梦幻般的
Ah, it's dreamy.

965
01:07:42,851 --> 01:07:45,312
那是摔下来的好位置
[Jimmy] That was a good place to fall.

966
01:07:45,396 --> 01:07:48,732
雷南，你身上一定有5磅重的东西吧
It must have been, like, five pounds on you, huh, Renan, like-

967
01:07:48,816 --> 01:07:53,279
是啊，我被三脚架挑起来了
[Renan] Yeah. Well, I got lifted off the triangle ledge.

968
01:07:54,697 --> 01:07:57,199
[Fabric Flapping]

969
01:07:59,368 --> 01:08:01,370
[Wind Howling]

970
01:08:03,497 --> 01:08:05,624
- [Rustling] - [Grunting]

971
01:08:06,333 --> 01:08:11,088
操！
Oh! Fuck!

972
01:08:13,090 --> 01:08:14,800
伙计
[Jimmy] Oh, man.

973
01:08:15,801 --> 01:08:17,678
生存模式
[Renan] Survival mode.

974
01:08:21,348 --> 01:08:23,350
断了
It's broke.

975
01:08:25,352 --> 01:08:29,440
我们是喜马拉雅大岩壁攀登者 我们的帐子却坏了
We're Himalayan big-wall climbing, and we broke our portaledge.

976
01:08:38,449 --> 01:08:40,534
这样更直一点了 - 是啊
- That's more straight. - Yeah.

977
01:08:49,418 --> 01:08:52,129
透气胶带
- [Jimmy] Whew. - [Conrad] Athletic tape...

978
01:08:52,212 --> 01:08:55,633
再来两个有孔螺钉 我们就又能回到正轨了
two eye screws, and- and we're back in business.

979
01:08:56,216 --> 01:08:57,718
Whew.

980
01:09:08,228 --> 01:09:10,856
神奇的一夜
<i>[Man] ♪ One night of magic rush ♪</i>

981
01:09:10,939 --> 01:09:13,817
开始仅仅是一次接触
<i>♪ The start a simple touch ♪</i>

982
01:09:13,901 --> 01:09:17,279
推搡和尖叫的一夜
<i>♪ One night to push and scream ♪</i>

983
01:09:17,363 --> 01:09:19,323
还有信仰
<i>♪ And then relief ♪</i>

984
01:09:19,406 --> 01:09:22,034
完美韵律的10天
<i>♪ Ten days of perfect tunes ♪</i>

985
01:09:22,117 --> 01:09:24,662
红的和蓝的颜色
<i>♪ The colors red and blue ♪</i>

986
01:09:24,745 --> 01:09:28,415
我们许下了承诺
<i>♪ We had a promise made ♪</i>

987
01:09:28,499 --> 01:09:31,502
我们相爱了
<i>♪ We were in love ♪</i>

988
01:09:33,087 --> 01:09:35,839
恳求上帝让我们牵手
<i>♪ To call for hands of above ♪</i>

989
01:09:35,923 --> 01:09:39,176
这个叫空间牵引
[Jimmy] That there is called space hauling.

990
01:09:41,053 --> 01:09:43,597
这条路线相当陡峭
This route's pretty steep.

991
01:09:43,681 --> 01:09:47,226
所以那些东西才会都被悬挂在空中
That's why all the shit's hanging off in space. [Chuckling]

992
01:09:57,277 --> 01:09:59,279
[Muttering]

993
01:10:01,782 --> 01:10:05,661
我一定要拍下我们现在在吃的东西
[Chuckles] I just had to film what we're eating right now.

994
01:10:06,787 --> 01:10:10,541
康拉德想让我们吃昨天的剩饭
Conrad wants us to eat yesterday's leftovers.

995
01:10:10,624 --> 01:10:13,252
看起来还不错啊
Oh, it looks great.

996
01:10:13,335 --> 01:10:15,629
我们的菜单上只有一种选择 那就是蒸粗麦粉
[Conrad] We have one choice on the menu, and it is couscous.

997
01:10:15,713 --> 01:10:17,256
明天，我们晚饭吃什么？
[Jimmy] Tomorrow, what are we having for dinner?

998
01:10:17,339 --> 01:10:18,340
蒸粗麦粉
Couscous.

999
01:10:18,424 --> 01:10:20,134
那后天呢？ - 蒸粗麦粉
- [Jimmy, Laughing] And the next day? - Couscous.

1000
01:10:20,217 --> 01:10:21,927
我四天前吃的是什么？
[Jimmy] What did we have for dinner four days ago?

1001
01:10:22,010 --> 01:10:24,138
蒸粗麦粉 - 好极了
- Couscous. - [Jimmy] Sweet.

1002
01:10:24,221 --> 01:10:26,515
我觉得这看起来真的很好吃
[Conrad] This looks really good, I think.

1003
01:10:26,598 --> 01:10:30,686
我确定，我那两只狗，哈皮和勒罗伊 一定会喜欢的
I'm sure that, uh Happy and Leroy, my two dogs, would just love this.

1004
01:10:30,769 --> 01:10:32,229
他们会觉得，“耶！”
They'd be like, "Yeah!"

1005
01:10:32,312 --> 01:10:34,148
我们不是他的狗
We're not his dogs.

1006
01:10:34,815 --> 01:10:36,316
嗯
Mmm.

1007
01:10:38,360 --> 01:10:39,862
嗯，蒸粗麦粉
Mmm, couscous.

1008
01:10:43,365 --> 01:10:44,867
[Yawns]

1009
01:10:57,921 --> 01:10:59,423
Whew.

1010
01:11:15,189 --> 01:11:19,610
我正在看着雷南，他似乎很抗拒 而且慢了下来
[Jimmy] I was watching Renan, and he seemed confused and slow.

1011
01:11:19,693 --> 01:11:21,779
我觉得可能是因为高度的问题
I thought it might have been the altitude.

1012
01:11:35,334 --> 01:11:37,044
我不确定到底发生了什么事
I'm not sure what's going on.

1013
01:11:38,086 --> 01:11:39,588
[Metal Clinks]

1014
01:11:39,671 --> 01:11:43,008
看来真的有些不对劲
[Renan's Voice] Something was really wrong.

1015
01:11:46,553 --> 01:11:51,683
我转过了我的脸，哭了出来
I literally just turned my face away and cried.

1016
01:11:54,269 --> 01:11:57,314
当我们最终进入了吊账
[Jimmy] When we finally got the portaledge built and got inside...

1017
01:11:57,397 --> 01:12:01,068
雷南也在那一刻崩溃了
that's when Renan really fell apart.

1018
01:12:01,151 --> 01:12:02,861
他直接晕了过去
He just collapsed.

1019
01:12:02,945 --> 01:12:06,865
<i>♪♪ [Man Vocalizing]</i>

1020
01:12:08,951 --> 01:12:11,829
<i>♪♪ [Vocalizing Continues]</i>

1021
01:12:11,912 --> 01:12:13,872
他有话想对我说
[Jimmy] He tried to say something to me...

1022
01:12:13,956 --> 01:12:17,835
而那完全是听不清的乱语
and it was just complete gibberish.

1023
01:12:17,918 --> 01:12:21,380
你知道，你能看到他眼中的惊慌
You know, you could see the alarm in his eyes that, like...

1024
01:12:21,463 --> 01:12:23,173
然而，他在很努力地想说话
however hard he was trying to speak...

1025
01:12:23,257 --> 01:12:25,509
但就是没说出来
it wasn't happening.

1026
01:12:25,592 --> 01:12:28,762
<i>♪♪ [Vocalizing Continues]</i>

1027
01:12:28,846 --> 01:12:33,016
一年半以前，我爸爸中过一次风
It'd been a year and a half earlier that, uh, my father had suffered a stroke...

1028
01:12:33,100 --> 01:12:35,853
我见过那症状
and I'd seen what it does.

1029
01:12:41,942 --> 01:12:44,528
[Exhales Deeply]

1030
01:12:55,956 --> 01:12:58,876
你知道，我们头脑中在计算 我们觉得...
You know, we're making calculations in our head, and we're like...

1031
01:12:58,959 --> 01:13:01,378
我们现在不能下去
Well, we can't go down right now.

1032
01:13:01,461 --> 01:13:04,298
我们会犯错的，这太浪费了
We'll make a mistake. We're way too wasted.

1033
01:13:06,300 --> 01:13:10,345
那是焦虑的一颗，迷茫的一刻
[Conrad] it was a moment of, uh, anxiety. It was moment of unknown.

1034
01:13:10,429 --> 01:13:14,391
那一刻接受了我们 要完成不了这路途的可能性
It was a moment of acceptance that we might not make it up the route.

1035
01:13:14,474 --> 01:13:19,021
接受了雷南的健康状况...
Acceptance that- of Renan's health...

1036
01:13:19,104 --> 01:13:23,317
他躺在那，我们什么也做不了
that where he was, there was nothing we could do about it.

1037
01:13:30,741 --> 01:13:33,243
[Wind Whistling]

1038
01:13:36,163 --> 01:13:38,165
[Fabric Flapping]

1039
01:13:42,767 --> 01:13:45,883
（第6天，海拔：18500英尺）

1040
01:13:46,506 --> 01:13:49,092
第二天早上，太阳高照
[Renan] The next morning, the sun was shining.

1041
01:13:51,345 --> 01:13:53,221
我感觉好了一些
I felt a little bit better...

1042
01:13:53,305 --> 01:13:55,807
但我依然无法说话
but I still couldn't really talk.

1043
01:13:55,891 --> 01:14:01,146
我能想到的唯一的事 就是我不想下去
All that I could think about is, "I don't want to go down."

1044
01:14:01,229 --> 01:14:05,275
如果我们下去，那我永远不会原谅自己
If we go down, then I'll never forgive myself.

1045
01:14:05,359 --> 01:14:10,364
我依然强烈地感觉到，我必须 贡献队伍，不能让大家失望
I still just felt strongly that I had to contribute to the team and not let us down.

1046
01:14:13,241 --> 01:14:15,619
轮到我带领了
It was my turn to lead.

1047
01:14:15,702 --> 01:14:20,540
他们不想让我去，但我看着吉米
Those guys didn't want me to go, but I looked up at Jimmy...

1048
01:14:20,624 --> 01:14:25,128
点头，让他明白我要争取
nodded, and it was understood that I was going for it.

1049
01:14:27,756 --> 01:14:30,050
他们密切地监视着我
They were monitoring me very closely.

1050
01:14:36,640 --> 01:14:38,642
[Equipment Clinking]

1051
01:14:45,482 --> 01:14:48,026
不知从哪，我开始感到一种势头
From somewhere, I started to feel this momentum...

1052
01:14:48,110 --> 01:14:50,237
攀登开始感到顺利
and climbing started to feel good.

1053
01:14:53,240 --> 01:14:56,660
我无法相信我完成了我的带领
I couldn't believe I finished my leads.

1054
01:14:56,743 --> 01:14:59,121
这对我来说是巨大的突破
It was this huge breakthrough for me.

1055
01:15:04,418 --> 01:15:07,838
康拉德和吉米依然很担心我
Jimmy and Conrad were still really worried about me...

1056
01:15:08,755 --> 01:15:11,299
他们扛了我大部分的负重
and they carried most of my weight.

1057
01:15:28,859 --> 01:15:33,071
梅鲁峰，每一次都很无情
Meru- it's relentless. Every time.

1058
01:15:33,155 --> 01:15:36,366
我们依然不知道那天究竟发生了什么
[Renan's Voice] We still don't know what happened that day.

1059
01:15:36,450 --> 01:15:40,203
我们在一起抽烟，聊着
We just smoked a cigarette together and talked about it...

1060
01:15:40,287 --> 01:15:42,622
决定继续下去
and decided to keep going.

1061
01:15:52,132 --> 01:15:57,054
经过了7天的攀登 我们就要进入最艰难的部分了
After seven days of climbing, we were just getting to the hard part.

1062
01:15:57,137 --> 01:16:00,307
崖壁变得超级陡峭，外悬
The wall got super steep and overhanging.

1063
01:16:01,975 --> 01:16:04,227
这是第20个点，吉米正在跟上
[Conrad] This is pitch 20. Jimmy's getting after it.

1064
01:16:04,311 --> 01:16:07,647
这里是“纸牌屋”，印度海崖的起点
It's the House of Cards, the start of the Indian Ocean Wall.

1065
01:16:11,902 --> 01:16:13,779
我知道他很害怕
[Renan] I knew he was scared.

1066
01:16:15,155 --> 01:16:19,326
我们都知道，在这里犯任何一个错 都将会是灾难性的
We all knew any mistake on this pitch could be catastrophic.

1067
01:16:20,911 --> 01:16:22,788
它看起来
[Jimmy] Wow, that's- it looks longer...

1068
01:16:22,871 --> 01:16:25,916
比昨晚更长啊
than it did last night. [Laughing]

1069
01:16:25,999 --> 01:16:28,251
在“纸牌屋峰”，他们之所以 给它起这个名字
In the House of Cards pitch, they called it that because...

1070
01:16:28,335 --> 01:16:31,088
是因为这些巨大的花岗岩
it's these immense blocks of granite.

1071
01:16:31,171 --> 01:16:35,092
如果你用力拉其中一块 那整个崖壁都会像
If you pull one of 'em too hard, this whole thing's gonna come down...

1072
01:16:35,175 --> 01:16:38,887
纸牌搭的屋子一般倒塌 只是每张“纸牌”都重达1万磅
like a house of cards, only each card weighs, you know, 10,000 pounds...

1073
01:16:38,970 --> 01:16:42,641
而且那些锋利的边缘 会从崖壁上被削落
and those sharp edges is gonna just floss 'em all off the wall.

1074
01:16:43,767 --> 01:16:45,769
看到这些巨大的石块了吗？
See these giant blocks?

1075
01:16:47,646 --> 01:16:50,023
他们在我的重量下移动
They are moving under my weight.

1076
01:16:53,777 --> 01:16:57,697
[Hollow Knocking]

1077
01:16:59,032 --> 01:17:01,368
这些是你不会想听到的声音
Those are the sounds you don't like to hear.

1078
01:17:08,542 --> 01:17:10,293
[Metal Clinking]

1079
01:17:12,546 --> 01:17:16,675
这真的很紧张，他在那待了6个小时
[Renan] It was really intense. He was up there for six hours...

1080
01:17:16,758 --> 01:17:19,719
我们都已经很疲惫了
and it was exhausting for all of us.

1081
01:17:22,430 --> 01:17:26,309
他们正在有坡度的山上，但你击打它 就能看到它们都在动
They're on a sloping hill, and when you hit 'em, you watch both of 'em going.

1082
01:17:26,393 --> 01:17:29,229
- 是啊，这里的一切... - 那会砸碎一切的
- Yeah, and everything here, I mean- - That would just chop everything.

1083
01:17:29,312 --> 01:17:31,523
然后我们就完了
And then we'd- we'd be fucked.

1084
01:17:39,573 --> 01:17:43,910
[Wind Whistling]

1085
01:17:53,295 --> 01:17:58,300
好吧，这是我们的登顶之夜
- [Fabric Flapping] - Well, it's our summit-bid evening.

1086
01:17:59,426 --> 01:18:01,761
山峰正在倾斜
And it's dumping.

1087
01:18:03,346 --> 01:18:04,848
[Sighs]

1088
01:18:05,682 --> 01:18:07,350
[Murmurs]

1089
01:18:07,434 --> 01:18:09,186
越来越痛苦了 - 它已经倾斜了...
- [Conrad] More suffering. - [Jimmy] It's been dumping...

1090
01:18:09,269 --> 01:18:14,399
大概... - 从三点半开始的
- for... - since 3:30.

1091
01:18:14,482 --> 01:18:16,526
现在已经5,6个小时了
Five, six hours now.

1092
01:18:16,610 --> 01:18:19,112
[Fabric Flapping]

1093
01:18:23,950 --> 01:18:26,953
那边情况如何，雷南？
[Jimmy] How's it lookin' out there, Renan?

1094
01:18:27,037 --> 01:18:30,749
那个，除了
Well, despite the, uh...

1095
01:18:30,832 --> 01:18:33,251
过去的4小时
heavy winds and getting battered...

1096
01:18:33,335 --> 01:18:36,546
一直在肆虐的狂风
in the ledge for the last four hours...

1097
01:18:36,630 --> 01:18:38,798
天上还有星星
there's stars...

1098
01:18:38,882 --> 01:18:41,927
所以咱们要争取
so we're goin' for it.

1099
01:18:47,647 --> 01:18:51,290
（第11天，海拔：20000英尺）

1100
01:19:07,577 --> 01:19:11,081
[Equipment Jingling]

1101
01:19:17,170 --> 01:19:20,090
现在可能已经超过2万英尺了
It's probably negative 20 out.

1102
01:19:20,173 --> 01:19:21,925
我的脚已经没知觉了
I can't feel my feet.

1103
01:19:24,761 --> 01:19:26,263
但至少还有风
But at least it's windy.

1104
01:19:32,227 --> 01:19:33,979
[Exhales Sharply]

1105
01:19:35,522 --> 01:19:37,274
静待阳光
Just waitin' for the sun.

1106
01:19:39,734 --> 01:19:41,528
[Exhaling]

1107
01:19:41,611 --> 01:19:44,531
伙计，我脑子都不清醒了
Oh, man, I can't fucking think straight.

1108
01:19:44,614 --> 01:19:46,950
好样的，康拉德！
[Renan] Good job, Conrad!

1109
01:19:51,454 --> 01:19:54,291
[Panting]

1110
01:19:59,087 --> 01:20:01,798
在登顶阶段，我觉得我们所有人
[Jimmy] On the summit push, I think all of us...

1111
01:20:01,881 --> 01:20:05,844
尤其是康拉德，都在害怕上面的山峰
and probably Conrad the most, was dreading the upper pitches.

1112
01:20:05,927 --> 01:20:09,055
因为他知道他是唯一一个能应对的人
Because he knew he was the only one that could do 'em.

1113
01:20:09,139 --> 01:20:13,101
那真的是艰难又危险的带领
And it was a really hard and dangerous lead.

1114
01:20:17,897 --> 01:20:20,400
康拉德那天压力很大
[Renan] Conrad carried a lot of pressure that day.

1115
01:20:22,277 --> 01:20:26,239
真的很难向任何人解释 他在那上面干什么
It's really hard to explain to anyone what he did up there.

1116
01:20:44,924 --> 01:20:49,679
我们最终抵达了我们在2008年 返回的山脊
[Jimmy] We finally get to the summit ridge, where we turned around in 2008.

1117
01:20:49,763 --> 01:20:54,309
而且我们都没谈，最后的带领要由谁来
And we hadn't really talked about who was gonna take the last lead.

1118
01:20:54,392 --> 01:20:56,603
那是最后的，未知的区域
And that was the final, unknown section.

1119
01:21:00,982 --> 01:21:05,695
康拉德看着我，他说，好吧
Conrad looked at me, and he was like, "All right."

1120
01:21:05,779 --> 01:21:09,032
我说，吉米，你来带领吧
[Conrad] I was like, "Jimmy, this is your lead.

1121
01:21:09,115 --> 01:21:13,078
轮到你来统领了
It's your turn to take the reigns."

1122
01:22:07,173 --> 01:22:08,633
[Groans]

1123
01:22:08,716 --> 01:22:10,927
[Panting]

1124
01:22:11,010 --> 01:22:12,720
好样的，吉米
[Conrad] Nice, Jimmy.

1125
01:22:19,853 --> 01:22:22,021
Whoo!

1126
01:22:22,772 --> 01:22:24,941
Whoo!

1127
01:22:29,279 --> 01:22:32,866
- 是啊，雷南 - 操，耶！
- Yeah, Renan. - Fuck, yeah.

1128
01:22:37,078 --> 01:22:38,580
[Laughing]

1129
01:22:41,791 --> 01:22:43,126
耶
Yeah.

1130
01:22:45,628 --> 01:22:47,380
耶，马格斯!
Yeah, Mugs!

1131
01:22:48,214 --> 01:22:49,924
我为你做到了！
Got it for ya!

1132
01:22:51,009 --> 01:22:52,886
[Panting]

1133
01:23:00,810 --> 01:23:03,813
[Breathing Raggedly]

1134
01:23:22,457 --> 01:23:24,334
[Exhales Sharply]

1135
01:23:30,340 --> 01:23:33,426
10年在一起攀登
Ten years of climbing together.

1136
01:23:46,773 --> 01:23:48,691
有那么几刻...
[Renan] There was-

1137
01:23:50,151 --> 01:23:53,029
有那么几刻，我觉得我可能做不到
There was some points where I didn't think I was gonna make it.

1138
01:23:53,112 --> 01:23:57,617
我指定这带给他们许多压力，所以...
And I know it stressed those guys out a lot, so-

1139
01:24:00,703 --> 01:24:03,039
很开心能上来
Definitely happy to be up here...

1140
01:24:04,249 --> 01:24:08,711
并且，参与了康拉德20年来的梦想
and, uh, take part in Conrad's 20-year dream...

1141
01:24:08,795 --> 01:24:14,300
吉米和康拉德一起攀登10年了
and 10 years of Jimmy and Conrad climbing together...

1142
01:24:14,384 --> 01:24:18,555
是啊，我感到融入了这个团队
and... yeah, feel part of the team.

1143
01:25:25,656 --> 01:25:30,524
（导演：吉米·金
伊丽莎白·翟·瓦萨瑞利）

1144
01:26:01,908 --> 01:26:05,328
当寒冷刺骨
<i>[Woman] ♪ When the cold bites your bones ♪</i>

1145
01:26:05,411 --> 01:26:08,665
侵入你心
<i>♪ And gets in your heart ♪</i>

1146
01:26:08,748 --> 01:26:14,087
会让你感到绝望
<i>♪ It can make you feel hopeless ♪</i>

1147
01:26:16,381 --> 01:26:22,679
害怕它会偷走你的阳光 带给你黑暗
<i>♪ And fear will come to steal your sun and make it dark ♪</i>

1148
01:26:23,763 --> 01:26:28,935
但你不相信你是一个人在奋斗
<i>♪ But don't believe you're lonely ♪</i>

1149
01:26:31,354 --> 01:26:36,859
我们一起经历了那些患难的时刻
<i>♪ We've all had that moment when our shoulders sink ♪</i>

1150
01:26:36,943 --> 01:26:40,446
我们坐下休息，心想
<i>♪ And we sit back and think ♪</i>

1151
01:26:40,530 --> 01:26:44,742
我们可以逃开
<i>♪ We could just run ♪</i>

1152
01:26:44,826 --> 01:26:49,205
但我们生来就是要追逐光明
<i>♪ But we're not born to chase the fading light ♪</i>

1153
01:26:49,288 --> 01:26:53,042
我们生来不是为了跌倒和失败
<i>♪ We're not born to fall and lose the fight ♪</i>

1154
01:26:53,126 --> 01:26:58,715
永不言弃，噢，不
<i>♪ Never letting go Oh, no, oh ♪</i>

1155
01:26:58,798 --> 01:27:03,886
我要你举起我 把我举到我从未到过的高度
<i>♪ I'm askin' you to lift me, lift me higher than I ever been ♪</i>

1156
01:27:03,970 --> 01:27:07,807
屏住呼吸，说你会和我一起
<i>I Hold your breath and say you're gonna come with me ♪</i>

1157
01:27:07,890 --> 01:27:12,395
我们生来就是追随
<i>♪ We were born to follow ♪</i>

1158
01:27:12,478 --> 01:27:16,232
永不熄灭的光
<i>♪ The light that never fails ♪</i>

1159
01:27:16,315 --> 01:27:20,194
<i>♪♪ [Woman Vocalizing]</i>

1160
01:27:22,905 --> 01:27:28,828
你害怕战斗，害怕攀登，害怕死亡
<i>♪ You're scared to fight, you're scared to climb, afraid to die ♪</i>

1161
01:27:30,371 --> 01:27:35,042
但我可以成为你的勇气
<i>♪ But I can be your courage ♪</i>

1162
01:27:37,670 --> 01:27:43,509
帮你看到胜利的希望
<i>♪ And help you see you've already won this ♪</i>

1163
01:27:45,261 --> 01:27:50,558
我们已经经历了那些沮丧的时刻
<i>♪ We all have that moment when our head hangs low ♪</i>

1164
01:27:50,641 --> 01:27:54,103
我们质问自己是否该继续
<i>♪ We question if we should go ♪</i>

1165
01:27:54,187 --> 01:27:58,649
还是该回头，逃开
<i>♪ Or turn back and run ♪</i>

1166
01:27:58,733 --> 01:28:03,112
但我们生来就是要追逐光明
<i>♪ But we're not born to chase the fading light ♪</i>

1167
01:28:03,196 --> 01:28:06,866
我们生来不是为了跌倒和失败
<i>♪ We're not born to fall and lose the fight ♪</i>

1168
01:28:06,949 --> 01:28:12,622
永不言弃，噢，不
<i>♪ Never letting go Oh, no, oh ♪</i>

1169
01:28:12,705 --> 01:28:17,794
我要你举起我 把我举到我从未到过的高度
<i>♪ I'm askin' you to lift me, lift me higher than I ever been ♪</i>

1170
01:28:17,877 --> 01:28:21,756
屏住呼吸，说你会和我一起
<i>I Hold your breath and say you're gonna come with me ♪</i>

1171
01:28:21,839 --> 01:28:26,302
我们生来就是追随
<i>♪ We were born to follow ♪</i>

1172
01:28:26,385 --> 01:28:33,893
永不熄灭的光
<i>♪ The light that never fails ♪</i>

1173
01:28:33,976 --> 01:28:40,608
一起来吧，我们要扬帆了
<i>♪ Come along We're settin' sail ♪</i>

1174
01:28:41,651 --> 01:28:44,987
不要再回头了
<i>♪ Never looking back again ♪</i>

1175
01:28:49,242 --> 01:28:52,829
我们生来就是要追逐光明
<i>♪ We're not born to chase the fading light ♪</i>

1176
01:28:52,912 --> 01:28:56,749
我们生来不是为了跌倒和失败
<i>♪ We're not born to fall and lose the fight ♪</i>

1177
01:28:56,833 --> 01:29:02,421
永不言弃，噢，不
<i>♪ Never letting go Oh, no, oh ♪</i>

1178
01:29:02,505 --> 01:29:07,718
我要你举起我 把我举到我从未到过的高度
<i>♪ I'm askin' you to lift me, lift me higher than I ever been ♪</i>

1179
01:29:07,802 --> 01:29:11,514
屏住呼吸，说你会和我一起
<i>♪ Hold your breath and say you're gonna come with me ♪</i>

1180
01:29:11,597 --> 01:29:16,018
我们生来就是追随
<i>♪ We were born to follow ♪</i>

1181
01:29:16,102 --> 01:29:20,857
永不熄灭的光
<i>♪ The light that never fails ♪</i>

1182
01:29:20,940 --> 01:29:26,320
永不熄灭的光
<i>♪ The light that never fails ♪</i>

1183
01:29:26,404 --> 01:29:30,867
我们生来就是追随
<i>♪ We were born to follow ♪</i>

1184
01:29:30,950 --> 01:29:38,541
永不熄灭的光
<i>- ♪ The light that never ♪ - ♪♪ [Vocalizing]</i>

1185
01:29:38,624 --> 01:29:45,756
永不熄灭的光
<i>- ♪ Light that never ♪ - ♪♪ [Vocalizing]</i>

1186
01:29:45,840 --> 01:29:51,345
永不熄灭的光
<i>♪ The light that never fails ♪♪</i>

